ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION: RED LINE AND GRAND CENTRAL

“Guess what I want for this anniversary (#29)???”  The hubby’s eyes had both a sense of dread and a look of “what could you possibly ask for now?!”  This one is a simple and inexpensive request (for once!)  “Let’s take the Red Line (LA’s public transport) to downtown and explore (and eat at) Grand Central Market,” which is something I’ve wanted to do forever.  Last year, we had an LA Staycation.   Next year is a big one with a very big trip to Africa. So this year: just a really fun day ...

The upcoming 100th anniversary should be pretty spectacular!

The Red Line opened 22 years ago, and that is how long it has taken me to ride it for the first time.  I am certainly not adverse to public transportation, as I take it all the time in other cities and countries. It is obviously not a matter of location, as the closest station is a five-minute drive.  The station opened in 2000, across from Universal Studios/theme park/Universal City. I found that it is convenient, quite clean, and certainly inexpensive ($3.50 per person r/t, certainly less than parking fees downtown). And in little over a month, the hubby qualifies for a senior discount ...

The train ride from Universal/North Hollywood station to Pershing Square in the heart of downtown was roughly 20 minutes. Fun fact:  the distance from Pershing to the Market is less than the distance of a home run at Dodger Stadium (395') -- which is among the many fun facts on the clever market website.

The market was bustling with lunch traffic by the time we arrived.  The line at first-choice Wexler's Deli was long so we grabbed counter seats at Olio and ordered two of their wood-fired pizzas and a salad. Interestingly, even though we ate there, they do not offer any plates -- everything is served in the same type of box/carton used for take-out. The margherita was good, but not great; the pepperoni among the best I've had. They have a regular restaurant in the Grove/Farmer's Market/3rd Street area of L.A., not far from our office, so I see a visit there soon.

After strolling through the different aisles (working up an appetite), we happened on DTLA - a purveyor of gourmet cheeses.  Aside from buying cheese, they offer a few sandwiches and salads.  Grilled cheese? Can't pass that one up. Three assorted cheddars on pan-de-mie (brioche) bread from BreadBar, lightly buttered, is put on the flat top grill, then in the extremely hot salamander, then back on the flat top loosely covered with a pan, and finally cut in squares before serving.  It is out of this world.  

Afternoon delight:  Santa Barbara's McConnell's ice cream.  It is just delicious.

We had to try the aforementioned Wexler's -- Micah Wexler is an alumni of the Milken Schools where our kids went and we had heard he has very serious deli food. We bought a couple of sandwiches to take home and consume during the evening's Dodger game (won against the Giants in a walk-off -- the perfect gift). Top-rate, hand-sliced corned beef and pastrami (below), but oddly tart coleslaw.  Definitely would go back there.

Bottom left:  hand-slicing and weighing each portion; right is our dinner

A row of steamers at Bombo for fresh seafood

Eggslut rivals Wexler's for the longest lines ... the egg sandwiches looked delicious

Looking for duck legs at $20/lb?  No problem ... available to go along with prime steaks and rabbit at Belcampo

Here are my observations of LA's public transportation: 1. Not enough parking at the station -- but when you do find a space, it is free.  We nearly bagged the whole trip but finally found a spot in an adjacent lot. 2. There are no bathrooms in the station. I found that surprising.  3. The train itself was fine -- at least going. On the way back, there was absolutely no air -- sort of like being in Bangkok.  We were drenched by the end of the ride. 

Most importantly:  4. I am grateful that I have the option of taking the train instead of it being my only choice. I can choose to hop in my very nice car any time I want to, without the concern of paying for gas and parking that others have. Anyone who thinks LA is only a sea of affluence (and much of it is) should be required to ride and see what much of our population really looks like.

Top, clockwise from upper left:  Very clean station; signage; bike lockers; heading down to trains, and beautiful colored tiles depicting LA's history.  One side of the pillar is in English and the other identical but in Spanish.   Below is the iconic intersection for the Red Line stop.

If you're inclined for an out-of-town romantic getaway, herewith are 50 suggestions from a Travel & Leisure column ... whatever you do, enjoy!

http://www.travelandleisure.com/slideshows/50-best-romantic-getaways?xid=NL_JustIn083015BestRomanticGetaways

CULTURE IN LOS ANGELES - TWICE IN A WEEK!

Most of us are familiar with Woody Allen's quote (when comparing Manhattan to LA) that "the only cultural advantage is being able to make a right turn on a red light." Based on a couple of recent amazing experiences, I wholeheartedly disagree ... 

Residents and visitors alike to the City of Angels are finding more options than ever before.  Our "grande dame" of venues is the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, home to the LA Opera and site of a recent fundraising event (for pancreatic cancer research) celebrating and remembering the great Luciano Pavarotti. The star attractions were none other than Renee Fleming and Andrea Bocelli, plus a special appearance by our opera company's resident director (and sometime performer) Placido Domingo -- not to mention the full opera orchestra.   I was fortunate to have seen Pavarotti late in his career and he was still mesmerizing, so the decision to attend and relive his career was exciting. Plus I had long wanted to see Ms. Fleming. Mr. Bocelli was not so much on my to-do list; somehow he seemed to me to be a bit too "commercial." 

 

At the concert's end, Mr. Domingo, Ms. Fleming, Mr. Bocelli 

To say the evening did not disappoint is a gross understatement, for it was simply magical.  The voices, the music (operatic highlights as well as "Maria" from Westside Story, and even Leonard Cohen's "Hallelujah") were all amazing. Mr. Domingo even joined in at the end to sing. For me, the most incredible was Ms. Fleming singing "O mio babbino caro" from Gianni Schicchi.   She said it is the most beloved aria she sings, no matter where she is in the world. (If you're not familiar, you can click here.)

If you're in downtown Los Angeles, I highly recommend the restaurant The Factory Kitchen in the Arts District where we dined after the concert.   The place was packed late on a Friday evening, and the food is inventive.  This is the brain-child of two industry pros and it shows that they know how to run a successful operation.  The aforementioned area has become quite "hot" with lots of quality restaurants, art galleries plus an amazing amount of building going on in this area east of downtown.

Top to bottom:  Ortalana salad; pasta with oxtail ragu,
home-made gelato; below is the open kitchen

Just down the street from the Dorothy Chandler, also on Grand Avenue, is the brand new Broad Museum showcasing and housing art from the personal collection of well-known philanthropists Eli & Edythe Broad.  The Broads have largely been spearheading the Grand Avenue redevelopment for about a decade. Museum tickets may be reserved on the website (there is no cost to attend) and many time slots -- especially on weekends -- are filled. But I snagged a weekday/midday time and went to explore. 

L-R on Grand Avenue:  The Broad, Disney Concert Hall, Dorothy Chandler Pavilion

This venue has already been written about world-wide, so let me add my humble opinion to the mix.  I love that the tickets are free.  I love that you can take photographs ANYWHERE (no flash).  I love that you can see into the vault where the art is stored that is not currently on display or on loan to other museums. I love that the museum is "manageable" for viewing the art; i.e., most of the works are on one floor and there is great flow.  

The outside plaza is planted with 100-year-old olive trees.

Looking upward toward the roof while riding the cylindrical elevator --
which experience is  sort of like being in a full-body scanner 

Twenty Jackies by Andy Warhol

Ed Ruscha's insightful observation

Jeff Koons' Balloon Dog

My friend Nancy is literally "Under the Table" as this Robert Therrien work is entitled

A photo taken though the glass, looking at the second floor vault. 
 Art not on display is stored here on massive racks.

What is so astonishing to me is that the Broads started collecting many of the artists when they were first emerging and no doubt have helped them become the well-known names they now are. Obviously they have had the advantage of endless resources, but it still takes a trained eye.  Or maybe it is just their taste -- most of which I favor.  I mean, who wouldn't want that giant Jeff Koons' dog in their living room? That's the other thought:  one must have an enormous home to accommodate these works ... or maybe just one's own museum. The Broad's have both -- click here to see the recent Architectural Digest coverage of their Los Angeles residence.

So stop all this nonsense about LA being a cultural wasteland and come see for yourself.  We're just getting started!

PASO ROBLES VINEYARD WEDDING

Weddings are generally happy occasions, but some are just downright joyful ... and a recent family wedding definitely was the latter.  All the elements were there: gorgeous setting (HammerSky Vineyards in Paso Robles); beautiful bride and handsome groom; wonderful weather (unseasonably mild); and the feeling that this couple is in it for the long haul.

First the location.  I have written about Paso Robles in a previous post -- i.e., it is now what Napa was many years ago, minus the crowds.  PR doesn't yet have the great eateries of Napa and probably won't for a long time, but it is easier and closer to access from So. Cal., plus it is about 30 miles inland from Hearst Castle and the gorgeous coastline.  

Most of the guests stayed at the Paso Robles Inn, a fine hotel (but for the rock-hard pillows).  One cannot beat the location, across from PR's main town square, and the rates are affordable.  For a more luxurious stay, I would opt for Summerwood Winery & Inn, where many of the wedding party stayed and site of the morning-after brunch.  It is close into the main part of PR, but with the feeling of truly being far away, a win-win. The addition of many amenities: wine tasting, home-made breakfast, evening appetizers, etc., are all a big plus in my book.

Full disclosure:  I won't be totally objective in describing the main event, because it's family -- specifically the groom is my nephew and the ceremony was officiated by his sister/my niece -- a true family affair. On top of that was meeting my great niece for the first time -- daughter of the officiant, granddaughter of my sister, niece of the groom.  Got all that??

L-R:  Grandma Janie; great auntie Margie with Doron
wearing her "My Auntie Rocks" t-shirt gift from us --
nice touch for our very first meeting ... 

For the wedding, guests were taken via shuttle to the vineyard, about 20 minutes from downtown PR. HammerSky Vineyards has become known as a prime wedding destination. Owner (and still-practicing dentist) Doug Hauck and his wife Kim have owned the property for less than 10 years, but have created a real gem. Doug was a hands-on presence at the wedding, answering questions both about his wines and the venue.

Top:  The setting
Above:  The ceremony
Below left:  Placecard & Menu
Below right: The table

Some of the offerings:  Risotto; roasted vegetables;
lamb; scallop in carrot puree

The ceremony was beautiful, emotional, funny, and very personal as stories were shared, vows spoken, and Jon & Lauren became Mr & Mrs Grauman.  It was then on to special cocktails, wine tasting and hors d'oeuvres before being seated at tables of different sizes for dinner.  As the sunlight faded, candles were lit and lights hung from the trees were illuminated for a beautiful effect. Music played a bigger-than-normal role in the event, as the groom started out in the music industry and has very close ties to this day.  I'm happy to report it was a good mix and there was plenty to dance to for everyone's tastes.  There was an after party, and even an after-after party (I'm told), but that was for the others.... 

The aforementioned brunch at Summerwood was the perfect ending to the event.  Delicious food, casual gathering, idyllic setting.  And another visit with the aforementioned great niece, Doron -- too bad we had to share her with lots of other family members!  She lives in Seattle so the next visit will be in December and I look forward to that.

Niece/officiant/new mom Jenna; baby Doron; our daughter Hannah

So congrats to the newlyweds!   Here are a few quotes on marriage, with which you can either have a laugh or take to heart ... 

"I had an exciting time.  I married for love and got a little money to go along with it." ~ Rose Kennedy

"Married men live longer than single men. But married men are a lot more willing to die." ~Johnny Carson

"All men make mistakes, but married men find out about them sooner." ~ Red Skelton

"When marriage works, nothing on earth can take its place."  ~ Helen Gahagan Douglas