A SURPRISE NIGHT AWAY PLUS WE'LL BE BACK AFTER THIS BRIEF PAUSE ...

Gift in our room ..

I often make the hubby my foil in these writings, mostly because of his "antics" (some good and some not).  Now I'll share with you a surprise and lovely travel experience, all planned by him, some 20 minutes away but it may as well have been a lot further ...

Friday, December 13, marked exactly 28 years to the day when we got engaged (after a mere 19 days of dating).   This is not the first time the date has been celebrated, in addition to the more traditional marking of our August 31st wedding date.  But this particular night was just lovely -- a combination of the setting, food, and company for sure.

We arrived at the most beautiful hotel property after this short drive -- The Langham in Pasadena. This hotel, built in 1907, was for years run by the Ritz Carlton, and is just as gorgeously maintained by this management.   What made it extra special were the holiday decorations everywhere.  So festive, so beautiful -- and the surrounding residential area of San Marino and the Huntington Gardens are simply amazing. Many of these large, gated estates were done up with grand lighting -- this area could easily be the west coast version of Greenwich, CT, or myriad others with lush hills and stately homes -- to give you a                                     visual.  

Dinner was greatly enjoyed at the iconic Parkway Grill, still going strong after 25 years.  Even though it was very crowded and filled with holiday celebrations, we were warmly cared for by the staff -- comped corkage, celebratory cupcake and stems of dendrobium orchids to take home.   

So, as I wish one and all a happy and healthy 2014, I would be remiss to not say how thankful I am that my most-frequent travel companion continues to fill life with laughter, love, and plenty of adventure.   Thank you for reading and please look forward to future posts in January ...  

Warmly, Teri B.

                                            

A RESORT WORTHY OF THE ACCOLADES, PART 2

Continuing on with the rest of our stay in Mexico’s Riviera Maya (specifically Mayakoba area), the trip’s big and only pre-planned activity was an excursion provided by 4 Worlds Expeditions.  This was a wonderful combination of activities in an area south of Playa del Carmen and not too far from Tulum.

Our first stop was the Kantun-Chi EcoPark to explore the remarkable caves.  

Down the hatch!

The water is fresh and there is no sea life, but the owners have installed plenty of light to view the formations while we navigated the rocks, stalagmites, low ceilings – all the while trying to maintain balance and not get hurt!   Our wonderful guide Silvia was extremely patient.  Remarkably, there were no thoughts of claustrophobia in this rather tight space.

Sting ray on the left side of photo

From there it was on to the Akumal area.  Many visitors come to the region and stay only in Akumal, which is excellent for scuba diving and snorkeling (our activity this day).  We particularly were hoping to see sea turtles, and I am happy to report they were completely visible not very far from shore.  Again, Silvia was most accommodating, even putting on the flippers for the hubby (who has no balance, not to mention a strong aversion to salt water).  It was hard to tell how large the turtles were that we saw.  There are very strict instructions not to touch them or get directly above them.  One had a sucker fish attached to it’s back – we were told the fish is rather lazy so it was taking advantage of the turtle stirring up things for the fish to eat!   There was also a fairly large ray which thankfully kept his distance.

Sea turtle with sucker fish attached

Tiger Fish

Our last stop was snorkeling in a very large inlet that had tons of fish in very clear water, followed by lunch at the beach -- although I'm not sure encouraging diners to climb up into their tree house while drinking beer in the sun is the best idea.   We then enjoyed "Taco Night" back at the hotel, complete with mariachi band and freshly made churros; muy deliciosa!

Lunchtime view in Akumal

Wanting to see the other hotels in our immediate area led us to dinner at the Fairmont Hotel"s El Puerto, the middle property in Mayakoba and by far the largest of the three (Banyon Tree is the third, comparable in size to Rosewood).  While all three properties are distinct and separately operated, there is reciprocity -- even to the extent of charging the Fairmont meal to our Rosewood account (can you imagine that on the Vegas Strip?).  Of course all of the properties will gladly transport guests in one of their luxury SUV’s.  During the day, there are ferries that go around to all three properties on an hourly basis.

This meal was an interesting mix of hot and cold, from sushi and ceviche to

Tuna sashimi with sesame slaw

Great finish to the meal

steaks, etc.  We enjoyed an array of really fresh and light seafood, followed a cheese plate for dessert.  A side note that seemed curious: the restaurant was decidedly formal – courses were wheeled out to the tables via a cart.  Except whoever designed the restaurant should have ditched the stairs – it took two servers continually raising and lowering those carts for each service!  Not the best planning …

And now for the one oopsie of the trip (there’s always at least one).  Each day we were happily enjoying ourselves in a poolside cabana.   The one we selected was on the far side of the pool, away from most other guests but very well attended by the pool staff for delivering endless amenities, towels, drinks, etc.  However, little more than 2 hours after settling in, more and more activity was happening with people gathering about – practically inside our cabana – and looking at us as if we were invading their “space.”  Finally one of the hotel personnel informed us that there was a poolside lunch event in this immediate area, with loud music, lots of alcohol, food and many guests (all there for a wedding).  Absolutely fine, but there was no reason to get us all situated as if for a typical day when we were to get the boot a short time later.  Better yet, the area should have been roped off and designated for a private event.  What ensued was awkward for the wedding guests and not too pleasant for us.  For a resort that is so service oriented, this was very un-Rosewood like, and the staff frankly did not know what to do -- I think they were a bit embarrassed by the gaffe.   A very nice conversation took place thereafter with the hotel’s General Manager, followed by a complimentary lunch at our new cabana at the beach pool and exceptional, “Rosewood” service.    There was even an uninvited guest in the next cabana .. 

A coati (raccoon family) enjoying guacamole and likely going for the pizza next ...

We also had the opportunity to dine at Banyan Tree's Saffron restaurant for excellent Thai food.  The rains wrought a bit of havoc for the folks who thought they could dine outside; many a meal was brought inside mid-way as the water persisted.  This hotel is very exotic and inviting from what we saw.  They were expecting Tiger Woods, among others, for a PGA tournament starting a couple days after our departure.

Spicy chicken with fried brown rice and vegetables

Thai tapioca ... this was not your grandma's version

Some final thoughts on the stay here, much of which we shared with the General Manager.  The staff was uniformly happy.  You can't fake that.   Separate from doing whatever they could to make their guests' every wish come true, we spoke to many and found them to have a great work ethic and seemed to genuinely enjoy their jobs.  One even shared with us that for the upcoming high season, he was sending his wife and two toddlers to the in-laws in Arizona so he could work double shifts and not put a strain on the marriage by being away so much.  He would talk to his kids daily via Facetalk, and felt he could do this while they were still young so the family could get "ahead."  

After yesterday's "oopsie," the management was even more attentive.  Cabanas were reserved for us both at the main pool and beach pool.  This reinforced my long-held business philosophy that everyone makes mistakes, but what separates successful businesses is the manner in which they remedy those mistakes.  Rosewood lived up to their well-deserved reputation in their responsiveness and we look forward to visiting their other properties!

At one with his tunes ... 

A RESORT WORTHY OF THE ACCOLADES

Are you ever unsure of how true the photos depicted of a beach resort might be?  Maybe in order to sell rooms, they are doctored a bit and/or the water might be made slightly bluer to get you to visit?   Well, in this case, I’m not sure anything would have prepared me for the stunning scene as we arrived at the Rosewood Mayakoba on the Mexican Riviera.

Let me backtrack and say I first visited Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula back in the late 70’s at Cancun’s Club Med.  To this day I can remember walking out for what seemed like forever and still being only knee-deep in crystal clear water.   In 2004 we spent a few very fun days in Cancun with dear friends from Houston.  I was astonished at how crowded and built up the area had become.  A few years later there was a brief cruise ship stop at Playa del Carmen, and again experienced that incredible water.

Infinity pool and beyond ... 

This time I needed the trip to be perfect.   The hubby and I are roughly three months apart in age, so this trip was midway between our BIG birthdays.   And since marriage is all about compromise, the timing of this trip did not take a lot of thought.   Neither on his big day nor on mine; after baseball season but before Thanksgiving and the holidays; oh, and take advantage of the not-yet-high-season prices.  And in between the mostly "ambitious" type of travel involved in our big spring vacation, with multiple cities, packing and unpacking, feeling the need to not miss a sight, I believe there should be a trip where the biggest decision is which bathing suit to wear and am I going to the pool or the beach today.

Matching birthday greetings

But because this will always be the "60th birthday" celebration (well, until a few days in NYC this January; but that is another story), this one needed to knock it out of the park.   And I am thrilled to report it did just that.  I had read many articles about this particular stretch south of the Cancun, and kept up on the all the "Best Resort" lists, etc. Separate from the Conde Nast Travelers Readers Choice list just published, this particular resort had long since been on my target list.  The hubby surprised me on my 50th b'day with a trip to Rosewood's Las Ventanas resort in Cabo, and it was all that one would expect and maybe more ... You know those little sewing kits provided at fine hotels?  Well, the thread in my kit contained only colors that matched my clothing. How's that for service?   I think the ratio of staff to guest was 4:1, and I loved those numbers alot.

The trip got off to a wonderful start -- upgrade to Dallas?  Check.  Upgrade to Cancun?  Check.  And then Rosewood personnel greeting us at the airport  with the first big decision of the trip:  "Our traditional welcome drink is a mojito.  Would you prefer a margarita instead?  With or without salt?" On the way to the resort, our driver Javier shared his interesting story -- in addition to working for the resort, he works as a bodyguard and is a 2nd degree black belt who teaches tae kwon do to young kids.  Good to know, but both this area and the west coast counterpart Cabo are completely safe to visit.  I'm wondering if Javier was convinced when the hubby told him we were on our honeymoon -- that it was the first marriage for both and how we waited to find the "right" person .. does that even translate??

One enters the Mayakoba area off the main highway that runs from Cancun south through Playa del Carmen, Tulum, and well beyond.  Every vehicle entering checks in at a security gate.  Depending upon one's destination, one either goes to the right for the Banyan Tree Resort, straight ahead for the golf course, or to the left for the Fairmont or the Rosewood.  And upon our arrival some 40 minutes later, said margaritas were there the minute we pulled up to the resort... Yep, a good start indeed.

Another welcome amenity

Another upgrade awaited us at the hotel, this time to a split level suite.  Pretty great, except I avoid stairs in order to preserve my knees (don't want ever to have to replace the replacements!).  So that was a bit of a decision.  Nevertheless, I completely unpacked and had a lovely plunge in the private pool.  Woke up to a bit of a monsoon, and quite a bit of water seeped in some of the doors.  A room change was in order, back to the originally booked accommodations.  Repack everything?  Nope, the staff will handle that, thank  you very much. Truthfully, it was much neater than what I had done!  Now much closer to the main pool and breakfast, but still with the private pool and outdoor shower, this indeed works.  And maybe there won't be any rain to deal with at all, but that is probably optimistic.  Getting one's bearings here is no easy feat; there are little more than 100 rooms but the spread is so large one uses golf carts to get around.  From reception to the beach is about a 15-minute walk.   A visit to the spa (world class massage in an outdoor setting) and dinner at the beach (soft shell crab tacos, salmon tartar and passion fruit margarita among the treats) was a fantastic way to cap the first full day.

Tangerine sorbet poolside

Beautiful weather followed the next day so swimming, reading and relaxing was the order of the day.   The staff is wonderfully trained to fulfill one's every wish.  Buenos dias, Mrs. Bialosky, como esta?  Cannot say enough about how pleasant everyone was.  There were non-stop poolside treats from mini drinks to crudites to Evian spray, etc.  I'm guessing even if the hotel were at capacity (they were about 75% full), the service remains the same...

Mr. Iguana wanted to have lunch with us ...

Cigar tobacco drying from the ceiling

We ventured into Playa del Carmen -- about 15 minutes via taxi -- for dinner at Yaxche; delicious Mayan and regional cuisine. Thankfully we were pretty much under cover on their patio when the deluge hit.  Only a little wet during dinner ...

Hotel lobby

One of the very interesting things to do on-site is view the eco-system of the property via a 30-minute boat tour. The only maintenance that the property is required/allowed to do is to remove seaweed; nothing else in terms of treating the water, etc.  The system's balance is therefore maintained for the inhabitants. Those would include iguanas, many types of birds, crocodiles and turtles, among other things.  And since many of the accommodations have small docks, it is surprising that none of the guests have encountered wildlife in their rooms -- although I did have a cat wander in one day from our deck.

Fortunately Mr. Croc stayed right there ..

Golf Course at Mayakoba -- gorgeous view ..

Tomorrow is the big snorkeling excursion ... to follow in the next post plus the rest of the trip.  

A DAY AT THE RACES

Typically my encounter with the horse racing world begins every year on the first Saturday in May.  The hubby is always searching far and wide from wherever we are in the world (and we are always on the big post-tax-season trip at that time) to find a broadcast of the Kentucky Derby.  And that is not an easy thing to do … it is far easier to find soccer matches and even the NBA than this iconic race. There’s virtually no way to avoid the race outcome for another 6-8 days until we are home when we can watch what was on the DVR so concierges from all over have tried to accommodate this request, and many of them have not even heard of the race!

I definitely watch the Preakness next and, if the same horse wins both of those races, then obviously the Belmont (which happened to be minutes from the daughter’s school and a very cool site to see) is watched in the vain hope of again seeing a Triple Crown Winner.   I have even attended the Kentucky Derby, pre-children, and it was indeed a memorable trip – complete with hat (I NEVER wear hats) and mint julep in hand.  Ah, that Old Kentucky Home …

As fortune would have it, the granddaddy of all in the racing world – The Breeder’s Cup with a purse of $5 million – was at Santa Anita Park this year, and we had the opportunity to go.   

From the website:  

Two Days Of World Fame And Fortune

The world’s greatest have to start somewhere. And for the Breeders’ Cup World Championships, that somewhere was Hollywood Park, 30 years ago. What began as a one day, 7-race event has grown into a two-day, $27 million extravaganza attracting the best horses, trainers, and owners from across the globe. It has also become the unofficial end and culmination of the thoroughbred-racing season, often with the Breeders’ Cup Classic being the deciding factor in Horse of the Year. And while these two days have seen legends born, history made, and fortunes won, the greatest part is that the best is still yet to come.

Waiting for the ponies

Among the more fascinating aspects was people watching for sure. There was a couple at our table (we were happily in a hosted area next to the Grand Stand) who reside in New Jersey.  There had with them their laptop, a 3-ring binder, and tons of other historical and handicapping paraphernalia.  Did that enable them to win more money?  Not sure about that.  I like my method of picking names that speak to me ... "Tap It Rich" sounded like a good one!  (But alas was not ..)   Our seats also enabled us to see/encounter a good deal of celebrities as there was an interview area up a few feet away ... Kristen Chenoweth, Bobby Flay, Richie Sambora (from Bon Jovi), etc., plus the ones below that couldn't "escape."    I actually had good reason to say hi to the Collins twins (retired players from Stanford and the NBA):  I served with their mom on the Los Angeles Taxicab Commission, so asked them to give her my regards!  As for the others, well, just having some fun...  

Wes Welker, Denver Broncos' Wide Receiver

Avery Johnson, also retired NBA'er

I AM standing up!  

From "Entourage," Jerry Ferrara (aka "Turtle) -- we discussed his
appearance on Fashion Police from the night before ..

Richie Sambora, but I'd much
rather see Jon Bon Jovi!

And then there were the hats.  I stopped a few women and told them I was writing a fashion blog (well, that was partially true) and they were only too happy to oblige.   Here are a few:  

Official "Breeders Greeters"!

Well, that's colorful for sure ..

A little somber maybe ..

My fave!  Never too young to
get started at the track ...

And when it was finally over, there was a remarkable story to tell.  The last time the hubby won big at the track was at the aforementioned Kentucky Derby in 1988 with the winner and an Exacta.  Yesterday the same thing happened during the final race of the day – the winner and an Exacta.   The winning jockey in 1988 AND in 2013?   Gary Stevens.  Well, at least I got one of the horses right on my ticket.   But his winnings are half mine, right???

Track mascot -- cousin of  Uggie from "The Artist"

Field of dreams???

DINING AT AN ICONIC RESTAURANT

What is it about being told "no" that gets the juices flowing?  My favorite expression as that relates to work is "the selling begins when the buyer says no."   But this particular "no" had nothing to do with work ...   

The original Rao's in Harlem

For a very long time, I have wanted to dine at a restaurant called Rao’s located in Harlem.  Frankly I’m not quite sure how I first learned of this establishment, but probably from reading where the glitterati go and where one must be an insider to have the experience.

 Frank Pelligreno

The restaurant has been in business in some iteration for more than a century, and is currently operated by Frank Pelligreno – who had a recurring role as an FBI agent in the Sopranos -- and Ron Straci, nephew of the founder.  With just 10 tables, one seating per night Monday through Friday only, the chances of getting in are beyond slim. And those 10 tables are literally “owned” by the regulars.  One is always welcome for a drink at the bar, but I want to sit there and savor the experience.   While researching more about the place, I came upon this posting by photojournalist Nancy Ellison:  

Monday night at Rao’s isn’t your average Monday night somewhere else. Rao’s, in Spanish Harlem and in the same family since 1896, with only ten tables and one seating is ‘famiglia’, and as such is closed over the weekend. Monday night is its weekly re-birth and the crowd is always gleeful, festive and full of song. (Yes they sing at Rao’s … but that is another story) Monday night regulars, besides the characters that look like the cast from Goodfellas – and sometimes are, have included Sonny Grasso (the real cop from the French Connection) sportswriter, Dick Schaap (when Dick passed away Billy Crystal asked in his eulogy who would inherit the table), Ron Perelman, Woody Allen, and Judge Eddie Torres (who wrote Carlito’s Way and Q and A). Also seen Monday nights, Sophia Loren, Senator Alphonse D’Amato, Mike Wallace, Sharon Stone, Martin Scorsese, Don Rickles, Pierce Brosnan – the list is endless.

And, yes, I know the products are sold at retail – I am huge fan of the jarred sauces and am ecstatic when they are offered on “sale” at the grocery store as the going rate is about $10.   I will never forget the first time I allowed myself to purchase this extravagant item; the son was helping to carry the groceries and, of course, dropped the one bag containing the precious sauce!  He was just a tyke but you can only imagine.  I kept telling myself, it’s only sauce!  On various visits to NYC over the years, I have tried and tried to get that illusive table, regardless of the obstacles, with the end result being the same recorded message:  “Thank you calling Rao’s.  We are presently booked for (fill in the year) and not taking reservations at the present time for (fill in the following year).  Please do not leave a message here.”  I even resorted to emailing Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, after she had an episode of her show where she cooked with Frank at the restaurant.  I pleaded with her for help to get us a table for the kids’ college graduations.  But obviously to no avail.

Our booth was surrounded by familiar faces ..

And that brings us to the present dinner at the Rao's now open in Hollywood.  Not only did I get a return call from family member Angie (maybe my new best friend), but she kindly got us in on an otherwise sold-out evening after she had to change from our original booking. BTW, one must provide a credit card when reserving. The penalty for a no-show?  That would be $50 per person charged to the card.  That requirement is hardly surprising after restaurateurs we've spoken to told us of a rather unseemly yet common practice:  People will make multiple reservations at different establishments in order to make a last-minute decision -- and sometimes not even bother cancelling the other bookings.   Therefore, I don't blame Rao's for their particular policy. 

By the time we arrived at 7p.m., the place was pretty much full.  Once seated I asked a ton of questions, including how many seatings per night?   Usually 1; maybe 1-1/2 given that the hours are just 6-10:30.  What I immediately noticed is that very few tables had just 2 persons .. there were far more with tables of at least 6.  That makes sense because "family-style" ordering is encouraged and the portions are definitely on the ample side.  I also asked how far in advance they take reservations and was told well into next year.  Thursdays or Fridays? Fuggetabout it!  Very tough already after only 5 weeks of being open.  So just what is so good about this place?

With the hubby and great friend/client Denise!

Well, the food is downright delicious.  Not to be missed are the meatballs, enormous and covered with a fabulous sauce.  Pasta e fagioli soup was another stand-out, but my favorite was a pasta dish of homemade "purses" stuffed with ricotta cheese in a clarified butter sauce and just a smattering of cranberries to cut the richness.   Plus the penne with Vodka sauce was pretty good too.   As for ambiance, well that probably isn't their strong suit.  It is very loud and there is a lot going on.  But if you're a people watcher, it doesn't get much better.   I definitely want to make several return trips with friends and family so they too can experience this iconic place.  

Those are a couple of LARGE meatballs!

Salad with roasted beets, pistachios & goat cheese

Wonderful pasta e fagioli soup

Penne with vodka sauce

Oh, and one last note, there is one other Rao's located in Las Vegas (at Caesar’s Palace).   In fact many of the LA staff was transferred from that location to work at the new one here.  But that would mean I’d have to actually GO to Las Vegas in order to eat there.  And the chance of that happening is about the same as getting a table at the NY Rao’s …  

The stuffed purses 

What was left of the NY cheesecake!