THE REST OF SEOUL AND ON TO SHANGHAI

Part 2 of our visit to South Korea continues with the final day in Seoul, which included a visit to the fairly new Leeum,

Samsung Museum of Art.  There are three very different buildings, each designed by a different and renowned architect.   I loved the vast collection of priceless celadon pieces and the modern art; this is a wonderful place to stop and browse …

Next stop was the massive Lotte Department Store.  The basement-level food hall rivals Harrod’s and the top two floors are "duty free."  As this was Sunday and the beginning of a holiday week that includes May 1 (celebrated internationally as Labor Day), it was wall-to-wall people, mostly Chinese, who have an insatiable appetite for shopping, especially where designer labels are concerned.  I’m just wondering how so many people afford the goods ... which, duty free or not, are still expensive by just about anyone's standards.

Korean Hot Pot (cooks right in the serving dish)

Of course eating traditional Korean barbeque was something we looked forward to, and the hotel sent us to a restaurant called Bamboo House.  A lot of the cooking is done at the table and was very delicious with tons of small “condiments,” but it can be on the pricey side … we learned the Japanese are not the only Asian country where prime beef is just fabulous but one better not expect anything close to a Flintstone-size portion.  

Shredded vegetable "pancake"

 

With our guide Adele

And now it was time to leave this wonderful country.  It’s hard not to draw comparisons to Israel, for both countries were established in 1948 and deserve great credit for the vast number of accomplishments made in a relatively short period of time.  We said good-bye to our guide with some final hugs and pictures, and look forward to a return visit.

The Bund

BACK TO CHINA … for the final leg of our trip, this time to China’s financial capital of Shanghai.  And back to shoddy internet, pushy people and too many smokers!  Now that I have that out of my system, we were pleased to meet our guide Jeony (easy to remember – like my sister Janie) and driver Mr. Xu (“Zhou”).  We are staying on the older east side of Shanghai, right off the famous Bund (boardwalk), as opposed to the newer west side of Pudong across the river -- which area was marshland only 15 years ago.   As even short flights (under 2 hours from Seoul) can be exhausting when factoring in all the airport time, I was glad we did not have plans for the afternoon or evening.  

We asked our concierge to recommend an Italian restaurant and had no idea what was in store.  After a brief exploration around the hotel, we returned as the hotel said they would escort us to the restaurant (that’s a first), which they kindly did up to and including handing us off to restaurant’s manager.  This turned out to be an exceptionally memorable meal.   8-1/2 Otto e Mezzo has been open in Shanghai barely one year, but the sister restaurant in Hong Kong is legendary with three Michelin stars (no rating as yet of Shanghai restaurants).  

Freshly made pasta

 

Veal Milanese

A native of Florence, our new bff Leonardo is a career restaurant person who took great care of us.  He reiterated what we had learned elsewhere: the frustration experienced by top eateries in China  in terms of sourcing quality product and the associated “tax” (graft) paid to get it right.  I’ll let the pix do the talking but wow.  And they couldn’t have been nicer.

Strawberry Napoleon

Jeony and Mr. Xu picked us up for touring Shanghai; off to the Old Town area and the Yuyuan Gardens.  The contrast between new and old here is stark, with 700-year-old buildings that now house ColdStone Creamery along with traditional tea houses, etc.  Unlike the Summer Palace in Beijing which was built for royalty, the Yuyuan Gardens were meant to be an oasis in the center of the city for the affluent but now belongs to the government.  

That looks very sanitary ... selling drinks with the dangling cigarette!

With Jeony, our guide

Two American husbands deep in a baseball discussion

Feed me!

Everywhere else was packed with tourists during this holiday week of May 1, but the gardens were much more serene.  Surprisingly (well, not really) we managed to end up in yet another pearl store.  Even I’m weary of bargaining at this point!   We then enjoyed a very traditional lunch (we were the only non-Chinese at this restaurant per our request to go local and authentic); Jeony helped us order and made sure everything arrived while dining elsewhere as is the customary guide/patron scenario.  

Ordering our lunch ...

Back to the hotel where I am happy to report I utilized the “gift certificate” offered for a spa treatment (save $200 RMB or roughly $30!).   I have some reluctance going to high-end hotel spas – there’s not necessarily the quality of treatment relative to the cost.  This proved to be a wonderful exception.   Downright affordable compared to many hotel spas and truly glorious; just a great experience.  I was chatting up a gentlemen in the waiting area who was in Shanghai for the third time THIS YEAR; he was a Philly-based businessman who has factories in different parts of China.  I asked him about doing business here and he said once you leave Beijing and Shanghai, it’s basically a Third World country.   I could fairly argue that the same could be said of China's two top cities as well  ...  Ironically, as I am writing this, I am watching Charlie Rose interview Google CEO Eric Schmidt (Bloomberg, CNN and the BBC are the typical channels available) where he is discussing Google in China and the government’s ability here simply to shut down access as they see fit.  Try that in a free and open society … anarchy!

Next blog will be final thoughts and pix from our Asian adventure!

FIRST VISIT TO SEOUL

I love Seoul!!  No doubt it is the contrast from having just left Beijing’s archaic airport (at least in the air–deprived terminal from which we departed) to the gorgeous, modern, and supremely efficient Incheon where we arrived barely 1:40 minutes later.   In fact with the proximity so close, I would advise travelers to Asia to include South Korea on any itinerary.

Our driver (pre-arranged with the hotel) was duly waiting for us in a beautiful Hyundai sedan that would rival a 7-series BMW (more about the great Korean-made cars in a bit).    Arriving at our hotel even at a late hour, one could see the vibrant and modern area of Gangnam, with lots of interesting architecture and multiple coffee houses on every block.  And seemingly everyone was using a Samsung (Korean made) Galaxy phone with Android technology, which products run neck-and-neck with Apple here.  The screens are so large; cannot wait to get one of those …

I had arranged for half-day tours for our stay, and the next day we were pleased to meet Adele and Kim, guide and driver respectively.   Off we went to our first stop of an old/new traditional village of just 900 houses, some of which have maintained their original architecture while many had been modernized, and the buildings were interspersed with art galleries, tea houses and, of course, coffee houses!  In speaking with Adele about the different Korean cars and how popular they are in the U.S., I mentioned that my sister Margie drives a Hyundai, to which Adele said, “Margie!  Like the Simpsons!!”  Well, actually that is Marge Simpson, and my sister’s hair definitely is not blue …

Not good enough for the Chinese!

From there it was on to Insadong, a fairly long street of shops, touristy stuff, street vendors and the like that is foot-traffic only on the weekends.   The hubby went to exchange currency there … I mention this because there was zero problem with the Koreans accepting a US $100 bill that had the tiniest tear in it  – which same bill was rejected (along with 2 others) in China.

New friends ...

Getting a quick back massage (trying to sell us something!)

We walked to one of the only temples located in the “downtown” area; it was in serious preparation for the Buddhist Lantern Festival which takes place every May. 

We were told a month is required to hang all the lanterns and the evidence was beautiful and clear … Hard to see from the pix, but the lanterns are bought by individuals which then entitles you to write a wish or prayer on the attached tags.  

This was an amazing sight ..

We were taken for a quick look at the Blue House (Korea’s White House) and then to a beautiful cultural center and a former palace – now symbolic only – where we saw the changing of the guard.  This is reminiscent of things long since past.

Not exactly Buckingham Palace but worth a snap ...

Finally we made a stop at the Cheonggyecheon –

a gorgeous wide stream over which 22 bridges were built – right in the heart of the city.  It is always a popular site for a grabbing a sandwich or gathering with friends, but especially so in the hot summers where people wade in to cool down.

 


The evening’s activity could only be considered a major trip highlight, for it was off to Jamsil Stadium at the Seoul Sports Complex for a baseball game between the LG Tigers and the Lotte Giants. 

 

Peanuts!  Beer!  Dried fish!!! 

Having gone to a game in Tokyo, we were somewhat prepared for the levels of enthusiasm Asians have for the sport.  They cheer as though every play would determine the outcome of the World Series.    Field level seats were about $12 USD, so it is very affordable and the beer flows heavily.  In fact, not only is there no bag check which is S.O.P. at every U.S. stadium, people walk in with cans – even 6-packs!  Can you imagine that at home??  And there is a head “cheerleader” on each side of the stadium – one for each team – but they are only in action when their side is at bat.   




Around the sixth inning, the most curious thing happened.   Stacks of plastic shopping bags were handed out – I thought it was for collecting our trash – but wasn't sure.   The custom is to blow up the bags and tie them to your head.  You wouldn't believe it were it not for the photo. 

Loyal Giants fans!

Two thoughts:  boy, would the plastic bag police go nuts in West Hollywood, Santa Monica, etc., and WHY???   I did find out the next day from our driver (a huge baseball fan) that the bags are indeed for collecting the trash and as a show of loyalty to the orange and black Lotte Giants (who lost in an exciting come-from-behind victory by the Tigers).

North Korea in the distance

Our second touring day was a trip to the DMZ, only 90 minutes from the center of Seoul.  The area has become a very popular destination as Korea is the only remaining divided country in the world.  Of course the hubby never missed an opportunity to make poke fun at the tyrant from the north with various derivatives (none complimentary) of his name.  It is quite fascinating from the Observation Deck there to get a clear look into North Korea in the distance (everyone is restricted some 15 feet back from the wall for photography); you can get a good look in the telescopes (for about $.50), but we travel with binoculars.  After the Korean War ended, four tunnels were subsequently discovered, built by the North and intended for an attack on the South; they have since been secured with lighting, etc. 

Tunnel depiction (no photos allowed in actual tunnels)

Visitors may walk the same historical paths – for 400+ meters (a little more than a ¼ of a mile), the tunnel is 6.5’ x 6.5’ and easy to navigate but very steep.  From that point, bending over and a hardhat are required so that was enough for us.  Thank goodness for the walking shoes worn (remarkably a woman showed up in stilettos), providing great traction.  SLOWLY we made our way back up … and, to our delight, some USAF were outside so a photo was in order (there are about 38,000 troops and these guys love it here).

Representing the two sides

Thanking our USAF troops ...

I'll continue with our Seoul visit in the next blog, plus this vacation's last destination of Shanghai ...