LOOKING BACK AND AHEAD AS WE SAY GOODBYE TO 2014

Oh, what a year it has been  ... New York/Peru/Ecuador/Colombia/San Francisco/Napa/Grand Cayman and more.

Scheduled for 2015:

Daytona 500/Spain/Italy/Slovenia/Croatia/Montenegro/London/some Caribbean Island (tbd) -OR- Dubai & Abu Dhabi! And who knows if I can work in the trip to Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey) in conjunction with Wimbledon. I'll get back to you on that one ... regardless of the end results, that's a whole lot of travel about which to write.

Sending you our wishes for every happiness, great health and much prosperity as you travel into the New Year.  We’ll be back in January with more travel stories, tips and photos.  Thank you for reading!

THE FRENCH LAUNDRY -- PARTY OF 4; OTHER STORIES FROM THANKSGIVING IN NAPA

How does one judge whether something is considered wildly extravagant or simply a great luxury to be savored? That was the question debated when we (the hubby and I) took our two adult children -- both mid 20’s -- to the French Laundry for one of the restaurant's remarkable gastronomic experiences.   Obviously this was their first time, but happily it was not ours … 

20th Anniversary Logo on the gorgeous china with the signature clothespin

Not surprisingly they are both foodies (must be in the genes) with no push back from trying new and wondrous dishes. It typically takes years to experience multiple restaurants at this level, but they have been fortunate to have dined previously at Michelin-starred eateries Daniel and Providence, so we knew this was an experience all could enjoy equally.  It goes without saying that the cost is dear; opinions vary widely on whether one can even put a price-tag on the return for this particular investment.  But that is most definitely a first-world dilemma...

Managed to keep it to one bottle of Cab Franc

I forged ahead with camera and notebook in hand to record this meal, booked for 1pm on Saturday.   The restaurant was full, even for lunch over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend.  The son had studied the winelist in depth online (he works in this arena via his company http://www.cellarmgmt.com/) so selecting what to drink was a fairly quick decision. The other choices were simple: Chef's Tasting or Vegetarian Tasting (roughly eight or nine small courses), and whether to have one of the supplements (truffles were a no, but we had to try the Waygu beef).

What sets this restaurant apart -- and what has impressed me over the years -- is the perfection from start to finish.  There is not a detail overlooked. Every dish has it's own special plate, even if that means for one tiny course.  Every one of the staff is attentive and accommodating, but what I would call "user-friendly."  In other words, they don't make one feel intimidated even if being served an unfamiliar dish or ingredient for the first time.  There is a genuine appreciation for the customer -- as though the place were just getting started. As for what we ate, here you go:  

Oysters & Pearls -- a classic item made with tapioca

Salted butter or sweet butter?  

From top:  Hearts of Palm Salad; Japanese Medai fish;
 Poached Lobster (my favorite); Squab; Lamb

Cheese course with pear "pudding"

The desserts:  Mini Apple Tarte; Ice Cream with Pistachio Base; Chocolate floating something;

all-time amazing "Coffee & Donuts" -- acutally a frozen cappucino in the cup with fresh beignet

To finish, chocolates & macaroons plus
 small tins of shortbread cookies to take home

Son Sam engages the sommelier in the wine cellar 

Of course it certainly helps to have the French Laundry Culinary Garden (comprising three acres) directly across the street, bringing new meaning to the term "farm to table."  We were also given a booklet showcasing some of the Chef Thomas Keller's many partners (purveyors).  His philosophy of being intimately involved in the food production way before it is ever served plays a huge role in the quality of the end product.  Was it worth it?  Just ask the kiddies who want to know when they can go back ...  



As for the rest of the trip, we had a wonderful Thanksgiving meal in Marin with many cousins and extended family and were grateful for the shared time with all.  We had a terrific meal at Bottega Napa -- Chef Michael Chiarello's flagship in Napa across from his Napa Style store.  Bar Terra and Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen were two others serving up delicious food.  And then there was the wine acquired to bring home, so much that we had to ship two cases. Even with the long and somewhat crowded trip home, at the end of the holiday weekend in the rain, we felt enormously thankful for the time spent with each other and for being able to do what we do.

This required a black belt in packing!

CAYMAN ISLANDS PART DEUX: STINGRAY CITY, SNORKELING, SPA-ING, SUSHI CAYMAN-STYLE

A glorious week spent in the Cayman Islands (continuation of the previous post) included a visit to the La Prairie Spa in the hotel.  Frankly the cost of a massage at high-end resorts makes me generally think twice about indulging.  But a “special offer” was too tempting to resist so off I went to explore and report (it is my duty, after all, don’t you think??) 

Rather stunning entrance to the spa (water is beneath the opaque floor tiles)

The facility, called Silver Rain, is beautifully appointed and the staff quite gracious.  The waiting area had several chaises with pillows and blankets, and a heated neck pillow was offered prior to my treatment as well as a "music menu."  That, together with a first-rate massseur and the champagne offered post treatment, sealed the deal for me.  Overall, a most lovely way to spend an afternoon.  

Being the smack in the middle of college football season and being married to a devoted fan made for Saturday night dinner in the hotel and a night watching various games. One of the hotel restaurants is Taikun, offering incredible sushi creations in a beautiful setting.  

Fresh wasabi is grated and served -- hadn't seen that before!

Don't ask; just enjoy!

Stingray City is a must-see in the Caymans, so we opted to be part of the estimated one million annual visitors who swim with these rays.  Clearly  I wasn’t the first nor last who had adventurer Steve Irwin in mind (he was stung by a ray and died), because there was a ready answer to the question of whether we were in any danger. After our catamaran (70 person capacity) made the short distance to that area, into the water we went. These rays are very friendly and literally will eat out of your hand with the live bait (squid) provided by our guide.  The water was barely chest deep, perfectly clear, and there were at least 50 rays swimming in the area.  Our second stop that afternoon was maybe 10 minutes away for some wonderful snorkeling to complete the excursion before being taken back to the dock and then hotel. 

Lots of other boats form a circle around Stingray City

This is a typical crowd of visitors -- but a bit on the small side

The Caymans are remarkably international, and I was trying to figure out why. It certainly isn’t a bargain in terms of cost, but the sheer beauty might outweigh that detail. Our hotel has employees from 60 different countries (an immigration challenge, to say the least).  We spoke to people from such diverse locations as Nepal, Bulgaria, The Philippines, Malaysia, and Austria, each with a different journey.  One night we engaged two Canadians at the local DQ who happened to be in a similar line of work as the hubby (their designation is Chartered Accountant).  The Caymans offer plentiful employment in that field, either for banks or hedge funds.   They actually gave us a ride back to our hotel so you never know how a casual conversation might end ..   

As luck would have it, our last dinner turned out to be the best -- certainly the most beautiful setting -- at Blue Cilantro.  Fortunately for me there was no cilantro in sight (can't stand it), but there was a gorgeous setting, attentive staff (and chef) and some inventive food.  Pictures tell it best:

The one thing we missed (my fault) was renting jet skis.  The hotel deliberately omits them as part of their offered water sports (they don’t want the noise directly in front of the hotel), but they were available a short walk away.  “Never put off ‘til tomorrow ..” came true on our last day when the water was too rough and so we missed our chance.  Lesson learned.  

My entertainment 

I’m again singing the praises of American Airlines after our flight home on a brand new Airbus 321S.  As with the outbound flight, I spent extra for the premium seats in coach, and selected an exit row seat with nothing in front of me.  This plane has new entertainment screens on every seat-back (mine had one that lifted up).  The selection of programs isn't free but for $5-8, there was a lot to choose from.  The electrical outlets were a great addition as well.

Aerial view of resort as we depart 

At the end of a stay, we always debate whether we would return.  Even if the answer is no, that is not meant to be a negative assessment. With so many islands yet to experience, the choice would be to go somewhere different and definitely stay at a smaller hotel.

Turks and Caicos, anyone??

A VISIT TO THE CAYMAN ISLANDS -- HAVING NOTHING TO DO WITH HIDING FUNDS!

Almost to a person, the response was the same:  “You’re going to the Cayman Islands – you must be taking a bunch of cash to hide!”  Wouldn't that be just dandy .. Yes, it is well known that people use this tax haven, the fifth largest banking center in the world(!), to stash their cash.  But I’m here for another reason: to spend mine plus enjoy a spectacular resort … 

Hotel website photo ... too good to be true?

My photo -- happily it is just as gorgeous (if not more) in person -- 

The only thing "wrong" with this story is how long it took to get here.  I don't mean the flight from LA-Miami-Grand Cayman.  I'm talking about the fact that 10 years ago we were talking about a visit here.  We were at the Ritz Carlton in Cancun when this hotel was relatively new and thought it would be great for a future trip.  Sadly the property had just been hit very hard by Hurricane Ivan and was closed for the next year.  Over the ensuing years, our travel was focused on the big spring trip (multiple countries & constantly moving about); which is a completely different experience.

It was only last year that our "resort plan" was made:  that is to visit a beach resort every November as part of our annual travels now that the kiddies are grown.  It is a great time of year to travel:  the hubby's tax deadlines are done, the World Series is over, it is the end of the rainy season but the low rates are still in place, and the crowds are nowhere to be found! Winner on all counts.   

The first of these trips was to Riviera Maya, south of Cancun, which is just gorgeous.  My goal then was the same as it is now: to walk on white sand that feels like Superfine Sugar (all you bakers can relate); sort of melts around your feet and isn't too hot.  Next is have the clearest water possible. Add in a great hotel and restaurants ... pretty much everything else falls into place. But first, where exactly are the Cayman Islands???   

Those of us traveling from the west coast can get to the Caymans either by stopping in Dallas or Houston, but more likely Miami.  Other than a really long layover, getting to the islands was pretty easy but still takes the better part of a day from the west; hence the reason so many left coasters opt for Hawaii. For my money, the waters in the Caribbean are  pretty hard to beat.  

Fun fact about this particular flight.  In observing the frequent flier "rule of thumb" to save miles for international flights, I opted to fly coach but pay extra for the best seats in that category.  That was money well spent. I was really surprised at just how pleasant and roomy the flight was, with plenty of legroom and zero airline nightmares! What a pleasure ... the second flight was your typical knees-to-nose, but fortunately it was just over an hour. 

Another rule of thumb I attempt to observe is avoiding hotels with more than 200 guest rooms.  Larger hotels seem impersonal (for obvious reasons), and those long hallways seem dreary.  Credit to this Ritz Carlton, which is 400+ rooms, but nevertheless is a 5-star gorgeous property with excellent service.  A bonus was being able use RC gift travel cards (through Amex Platinum points) and a 5th night free with the stay. A quick room change after the first night put us steps away from the beach in larger quarters and minus the hallways so all is well in Grand Cayman!  

The daily agenda is a simple one:  morning workout followed by breakfast followed by sitting either poolside or at the beach with music and reading.  If the goal of this type of trip is R&R, then not much else is required.  When it gets too hot, then the pool or ocean is the answer.  A variety of activities are provided by the hotel at the beach -- floating tables & chairs with drink-holders, a giant water mo-ped (the hubby vetoed, citing being on vacation), kayaks, paddle-boards, etc.  For me just walking along this amazing stretch was enough.  And if it weren't for the mosquitoes (dubbed "no see-um's" because you literally can't) that seemed resistant to the repellent and resulted in bites the size of quarters, it was just glorious.  Small price to pay.

One of two pools here

Mo-ped built for two 

Floating tables with shade

Healthy (as well as delicious) lunch

Our home for the day

Wish I could take credit for this 

I could get used to this!

Delicious local catch enjoyed at Ortanique

How nice not feeling guilty about the water .. (Californians can relate)

Nothing like a mid-day shower to clear the beach. I took refuge in order to protect the camera while on a walk as the downpour ensued. The rains come and go fairly quickly and then clear up whatever humidity there is (VERY little -- another plus). Next post: my review of the La Prairie Spa, our visit to Stingray City, and more food pix ... ! 

THANKSGIVING: THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX; ALTERNATIVE IDEAS FOR THE HOLIDAY

For the most part, I can hear the responses now:  “Good lord, I have to think about Thanksgiving ALREADY??” That is the common denominator this time of year.  Why do the holidays have a way of creeping up on us seemingly earlier and earlier, and why is Thanksgiving both loved and often loathed – not the holiday itself but the planning, execution and deciding who goes where??

I, like so many others, had a tradition in place for a long time, hosting the dinner at home with mom, siblings (sometimes every other year), and assorted offspring.  Then the offspring moved and/or had significant others, and of course some of the family was no longer here to celebrate, arguably the toughest of all.  I am particularly reminded of loss this year, as I know many of you are who read this blog.

My tradition changed mainly for two reasons.  The first is due to the growth of an annual Hanukkah party which often is close to Thanksgiving (last year they intersected) so planning two overlapping events frankly became silly.  The other reason was the desire to take advantage of traveling over the holiday but avoiding the killer days (the Wednesday before and the Sunday after).  In fact, our first Thanksgiving trip incorporated the weekend before the holiday when the hubby, son, daughter and I went to London for a week.  They were in their senior and junior high school years, respectively, and we justified the time away with them gaining historical perspective!  The bottom line is we were hooked on traveling for this holiday.  

After that is it was off to various cities in the U.S. (NYC, Chicago, New Orleans and Nashville) where the kids joined us from their colleges and we had a great four days, truly shared together. So what's the plan this year?  With my Bay area cousin graciously accepting us joining their large gathering with not a moment's hesitation (I would do the same -- what's four more when you're having a crowd?), a no-brainer decision to visit Napa once again required little additional thought. More about the upcoming trip in a future post.

I found at least one kindred spirit for Thanksgiving travel -- Pilar Guzman, Editor in Chief of Conde Nast Traveler -- who writes in the current issue: "Imagine having Florence, which you readers told us in our 27th annual Readers' Choice Awards was your favorite city in the world, more or less to yourself" as she discovered on a family trip years ago.  She continues "The weather was pretty perfect:  After 15 minutes of walking we found ourselves peeling off scarves and extra layers.  It was equally true for Venice and Rome during the same trip and for Paris the year before. Our kids, not to mention my in-laws, covered the city on foot with far fewer break requests than they would have if it had been in the summer."

So what is the takeaway?  Consider taking the road(s) less traveled if you can at this or other times of the year and avoid the crowds.  I love a family gathering as much as anyone, but combining that passion with the travel passion provides a double dose of goodness!