CROATIA AND THE DALMATIAN COAST

Want to fly from Milan to Dubrovnik?  No problem .. just go through Munich for some unknown reason. And that was the path to get us to our stay in Croatia for a few stops along the incredible Adriatic Sea coastline.   I was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked Luftansa's regional jets -- two seats on each side of the plane -- for I was concerned they would be bumpy. Not at all. Ample legroom and punctuality enhanced the experience.  And given that we were one of only two planes at the Dubrovnik airport, the luggage was a cinch.  Avis?? Not so much. I could make a joke about how many Croatians it takes to rent a car, with the answer being six, but that would be cruel. Too bad it was so.  The first one lost the key to the Avis office ... which was miraculously found in his pocket after 15 minutes or so.  Finally, after two others programmed the Garmin device for our hotel in Split, we were on our way in some type of Mitsubishi vehicle with lousy pick-up compared to the Hyundai we had rented in Spain.  I do think we got soaked paying 40 Euros for some green card we were told was absolutely mandatory if the car is taken out of Croatia -- which is frequent as we learned along the highway -- since we weren't asked to present it once at any checkpoint.  I see a refund in our future ..  The hubby inside reading the map in our Croatian wheels ..  After roughly three hours, we arrived at our hotel in Split, one of Croatia's main coastal/gateway cities with many options for ferries to the neighboring islands. With the late hour, travel fatigue and rain, we had no idea what lay in store regarding the next morning's view .. and what thrill it was.  Clear and gorgeous blue water for as far as the eye can see.  Best of all, no agenda for the day or the ones to follow.  A trip to the spa was in order for their "Made to Measure" massage -- i.e., basically pick your favorite technique and pressure, etc.  For the hour, plus a nail polish change afterward and tip, it was under a hundred bucks. Unheard of at most high-end resorts (this one being Radisson Blu). View from the room in Split! We made the short drive into the city center to get the local currency ... Croatia is not part of the EU so the Kuna it is.  Maybe that's why it is so affordable here. A great and fresh meal with a couple of courses can easily be had for $40 or so.   A delicious gelato for a $1.50.  Again; unheard of!   The nearby island of Brac (pronounced "brash" -- too many j's, p's and c's in the language) was our destination of choice by ferry with our rental car. The hour-long trip and driving there was easy, continuing on the island until we found a small boat harbor for lunch.  Again, the delicious and fresh food was a bargain. Such a pleasure after expensive meals in Spain and Italy (it is both a culinary and currency diet in Croatia). Top:  On the ferry to Brac; view back toward Split Middle:  Lunch of grilled fish and calamari Bottom:  Port where we stopped for lunch Below:  Various ferry routes from Split Above: The gorgeous water as we waited for our ferry (below) to take us back to Split.   Left: I guess someone either got lost or had wishful thinking. As has become typical during our travels, an itinerary change was made after deciding against the long drive inland to the capital city of Zagreb.  Instead we headed north to Zadar, another of the coastline's main gateways.  A quick Frommer's/Trip Advisor consultation led us to the Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Iadera in Punta Skala.  Some travel expert I am -- there are 28 Falkensteiner locations throughout Europe, heavily concentrated in Germany and Austria, but I'd never heard the name.  They offer both hotels and family residences throughout.  This property has a spectacular location, albeit challenging to find even with GPS. This unplanned stay ended up being a great choice for some R&R after ambitious traveling.  Less than ideal was the number of kiddies here, mostly because the international holiday of May 1 created a 3-day weekend.  But we had a very large suite for a very attractive price, an enormous spa, several pools, etc. Enough said.   A few views of the resort -- the main pool was both inside and outside via a sliding glass door.  The contrast of the Adriatic with the pool created quite a stunning view. After a day of doing nothing, it was off to the spectacular Krka National Park in Skradin to see the waterfalls.  Wow -- just gorgeous.  We would gladly include Plitivice on a return trip for more of the same.   We admit it.  We're obsessed with Westies and take photos of them world-wide. Next stop:  Dubrovnik plus a day trip to Montenegro ...

Reunion in Milan

Imagine my surprise when a private Facebook message was received in November, 2013:  "Are you the Teri Michaels who went to St. Moritz a very long time ago?" To which I replied, "It depends ... Who are you??" "It's me -- Maddy from Luxembourg!"  Well, then indeed I am one and the same, but for many years now with my married last name Bialosky.  The wonders of the internet will never cease to amaze ... 

Maddy and I not only became fast friends during that two-week ski trip to Switzerland in 1979 (my first trip to Europe), but we were pen-pals for several years after ... you know, the quaint art of paper and stamps?  I'm not sure when we lost touch, but I was so happy to reconnect via FB. When I wrote to Maddy about a vacation we already had planned to Europe, it didn't take long for us to figure a location (Milan) in which she and her husband John would travel from Luxembourg to meet me and the hubby for a whirlwind two days.

I am on the left (with all that hair), and Maddy is on the right.

I learned that Maddy had tried in vain to contact me during many of her visits to the U.S., including California!  What a shame it took so long ... but we took up quite fine once we encountered each other at the hotel elevator of all places.  Her English is great and John understood what we were jabbering about so all was well from the get-go.  

The backdrop was from an event at the hotel so we had our 15 seconds of "red carpet" fame.  Maddy had the perfect towering heels for this shot!

The last visit to Milan for the hubby and me was in 2001.  The city layout stayed with me all this time (must be the stores) as I found it very easy to navigate on foot. The exchange rate is not the miracle it was then, but it was much better than in recent years.  Since we had seen the historical/art aspects of Milan on the previous visit, this time it was all about shopping (mostly the "window" variety) and people watching.

We arrived very early so breakfast was enjoyed with this view, plus a very nice amenity waiting in the room.

And so that is what we did during our time together:  strolled the streets, compared our lives then and now, ate delicious food (it is quite difficult NOT to pretty much anywhere in Italy) and made some small purchases.

Neither she nor I ski anymore as we did for those two glorious weeks in St. Moritz. But then as now we had adjacent accommodations (albeit considerably more upscale now) and a basic connection that has spanned more than three decades. There is also a love of world travel, long-time marriages, and an ease with online communication.  All that is left is to plan our next visit!  

Regarding those "more upscale" accommodations, I was excited to stay at my first Bulgari hotel.  I am a longtime fan of the brand and only wish I could own more of their products ... This property is definitely a "boutique" hotel with superb accommodations and a phenomenal location.  The service was top notch.  A young female concierge even accommodated me when I my flat iron device blew in the electrical outlet by bringing hers from home for my use.  Now that is service.   

Everything Armani - including sushi (Nobu)

The four of us at Paper Moon.  They serve outstanding and simple Northern Italian fare.  In Trip Advisor terms, it is "a neighborhood gem."  Below is their Pizza Margherita.

A last shot before we departed the hotel. As tempting as it was,  we refrained from taking that car for a spin (it was available to rent!)

Moral of the story: reconnect with someone meaningful from your past if the opportunity presents itself. Maddy, my friend, thank you for finding me!  See you again soon. Next stop for the hubby and me: Croatia ...