AFRICA, PART 3: LUXURY SAFARI IN KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

The lead-up and anticipation prior to a safari is exciting and filled with anticipation.  One can look online and talk to friends who have been; experiencing it first-hand is an entirely different story.

The third stop on this African holiday took us north after our the wonderful days in the Cape Winelands (see previous post). One could call Hoedspruit an "airport," but it's really nothing more than a series of connected landing strips and a small building surrounded by fencing to keep the animals out.  Rudi, our guide for the next couple of days, greeted us and handled our duffels (in keeping with the reduced baggage allowance).  

Can't you just see Simba on that cliff??	Deplaning at Hoedspruit
Quite the modern technology;  kind of like the scoreboard at Fenway Park	With Rudi, our guide for the stay who also does airport runs

Forty minutes later, we were warmly welcomed at Royal Malewane by the GM and assorted personnel with a cool towel and tropical drink. This safari camp is also part of The Royal Portfolio; after our stay at their sister property in the wine area of Franschhoek, we knew we were in for a treat.  Lunch on the terrace (with buffalo in sight) included orientation, and then we were off on our first safari drive. Nothing is mandatory in the schedule, of course, but it would seem rather silly to come all this way and not participate.  The 5:30 a.m. wake-up call for 6:15 departure may sound a bit like boot camp, but I've never known one with luxury accommodations, service and cuisine.

Quite the welcome ..

Beautifully and warmly decorated accommodations.  We were free to walk to our room during the daylight, however guests must be escorted by camp personnel after dark ... lots of critters around that might not be friendly.

Hangin' outside the camp kitchen; couldn't care less about us; below: looking out to the grounds from the spa area.

We were in luck right off the bat, with a number of giraffe, elephants and rhinos all congregated around a mud hole.  Sage advice was proffered:  ... don't miss the experience of being on safari by being glued to whatever device you are using.  Cells were allowed for photos only but had to be on mute. The high point was a rare sighting of a black rhino; only about 20% of visitors are able to do that. To us lay people, the rhinos (black and white) looked pretty much the same -- the name has nothing to do with their color... 

Honestly, he looked the same to me .. we were told the mouth has a different shape than the white rhino.

They love a good mud bath ...

The days are long.  Coffee and a light bite is served prior to the first drive of three hours or so.  A beautiful breakfast awaits on return, and then the day is free to do as you wish (exercise, spa visit, etc).  The afternoon drive heads out at 3:30 and dinner is served after the return.  There were candlelit terraces one night; a short drive to a tent the next where we were greeted with champagne, traditional African dancing and buffet. Every wine and spirit is available, and the staff is always quietly present.  They really serve "with pleasure."

The lighting is extraordinary; once the sun set, it seemed like every star in the sky was visible

Cocktails and snacks at sunset on the drive

When one thinks of staying in a hotel, typically included is daily maid service, with the next level being turn-down upon request, then to automatic turn-down plus maybe some amenities in the room. Then there are these camps where (invisible) staff were in the room every time we left --sometimes four or five times each day. Oh, and laundry is beautifully washed and ironed -- at no charge.

The primary goal of going out on the drives is to provide guests with sightings of the "big five" -- originally so designated as the most difficult animals hunted on foot, but now regarded as the most desired to be photographed by safari-goers.  They are: African lion, African leopard, Cape buffalo, black/white rhinos and African elephant. Expert ranger Rudi, along with tracker Jonas, led us for all of the drives, and they were extraordinary.  Sightings cannot be guaranteed. But with cooperation via short-wave radio -- not only with our camp's other vehicles but with neighboring camps as well -- information is shared regarding the best direction to see the animals.  The experience was remarkable. Some animals were more cooperative and abundant than others which can merely be a matter of timing.   The pictures tell it best....

Zebras, although there they are called Zabras (long "a")

That's what happens when you don't listen to your mama. The vehicle at top indicates how close we were.

Hippos were a frequent sight outside the water -- a prolonged drought is not giving them much choice.

Talk about having a target on one's back ... one of the many types of antelope

The experience in the vehicle is akin to "Transformers" -- up, down and through steep terrain.  Jonas is using a machete to cut through brush to get us closer to a leopard.

The birds aren't just along for the ride; they are performing a service by removing ticks from the rhino's back.

Analyzing tracks so as to find animals for us to view

That's me in the mirror -- forever taking photos.

Candlelit dinner on the terrace

Above, the greeting after we were driven to a tent for dinner; menu at right.

Sisters?  Girlfriends?  Not sure about these two beauties.

The elusive leopard -- very hard to see in the brush.  This young lady was about 18 months old.

Our very compatible group: Bonnie & Jay from NJ; newlyweds Major & Marta from Cabo; with Rudi & Jonas

We HATED to say goodbye ...

Next post: we head two hours southeast to private game reserve Sabi Sand to stay at Londolozi.  We vowed not to compare the game viewing with this stay in Kruger, but I'll weigh in on the difference in the accommodations, etc....

AFRICA, PART 2: CAPE WINELANDS NOT QUITE NAPA ... YET

When one has the good fortune to be just a few hours from the world-class Napa Valley, it is easy to become a bit jaded in terms of whether another region can compete.  But when the hubby and I arrived in Franschhoek, outside of Cape Town (see previous post), it was time to rethink that premise. Certainly the accommodations at La Residence rank atop the most superb experienced in our travels .. and that is saying A LOT.

From La Residence:  the entrance; staff greeting us; our vineyard suite and looking our to the main pool.

Pool for the five vineyard suites; our accommodations and the bar provided.  Don't see what you like; Just ask!

From the welcome crew awaiting us on the portico to our vineyard suite, one of five total (this one belongs to owners Liz & Phil Biden) plus 11 rooms in the main building, I have now declared (only somewhat in jest) that I am never leaving.  The beauty is just staggering, not to mention everything included -- bar stocked to "our pleasure," amenities galore, fireplace, private garden, and on ... I am embarrassed to admit this wasn't even our first choice -- that actually was Delaire Graff (comments below).

Bath drawn by the amazing staff; breakfast laid out by a roaring fire to ward off the morning chill; news summary provided plus an assortment of reading glasses just in case ...

Two days is a wholly-inadequate amount of time to enjoy the wine country. Between the principal areas of Franschhoek and neighboring Stellenbosch, there are more than 300 wineries of varying size with more opening all the time. Comparisons to the wine country of Northern California are inevitable. The surrounding mountains are higher in the Cape area, and the weather is more tropical.  Both regions have a mix of enviable soil, open vistas and non-stop visitors coming through.

The biggest difference regrettably is I've never known Napa/Sonoma wineries to have barbed-wire fences surrounding their properties.  Nor are there spaces where undeveloped land is home to virtual slums -- open-sided "housing" with no evidence of the most basic conveniences about which we Americans don't give a second thought. There are lots of small children milling about. The circumstances are heartbreaking. That is not unique to the wine area; we saw much too much of it when driving in other areas of the Cape.  

The wine area of Northern California always appears to me to be "manicured," even in areas absent a winery.  That is another difference compared to the Cape area where undeveloped land is every mix of weed and debris. 

That said, there are ultra-luxurious properties around the Cape -- certainly La Residence (one of five properties making up The Royal Portfolio) -- plus Delaire Graff, the latter developed and owned by British billionaire/jeweler Laurence Graff.  It is an exquisite property with just 10 accommodations and two phenomenal restaurants: Indochine and Delaire Graff Restaurant.  We had a wonderful dinner with great service at the latter on our last night in the area.

On the grounds and elsewhere, there is an impressive collection
of these enormous Dylan Lewis sculptures.

The other sought-after restaurant is The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais in Franschhoek.  The tables are offered to hotel guests first, and then to outsiders.  We were thrilled when our wait-list booking was confirmed just hours before the requested time slot.  For a party of two, no two dishes within a course are the same (we swapped a bit after being served). Thankfully a printed menu was presented with the bill so I could read what was just consumed.  Many of the ingredients incorporated were both regional and unfamiliar with inventive presentations. The staff is meticulously trained, yet it was challenging to understand most of the personnel because they speak a variety of dialects. Right now the exchange rate of South African rand is extremely favorable to US dollars which is definitely a benefit to us, but not so to the country.

Franschhoek Motor Museum: South Africa's answer to Jay Leno is the collection of 300 cars owned by the Rupert family.  There are 80 cars on display at a time.  Above is the trolley we took to tour the main grounds of this estate, including the winery and private track above where the cars are routinely driven.

Clockwise from upper left:  the first Ford Model T in South Africa; a Cord; the source of the family wealth (tobacco); the buildings display 80 cars at a time (rotated every six months); a Bugatti

Early 20th century touring cars; celebrating 100 years of BMW; collection of Mustangs

That Aston Martin works for me; five of their 15 Ferraris; our guide/docent was extremely knowledgeable.  Only the five mechanics on staff are allowed to even start the cars, let alone drive them.

The proverbial take away is go, go, go to this wonderful and fascinating country.  The Cape winelands may not be the Napa Valley just yet, but you are certain to enjoy the scenery, great food, hospitable people and some excellent wines -- in particular Pinotage, which happens to be South Africa's signature variety, which we greatly enjoyed.  It is a cross between the Pinot Noir and Cinsaut grapes  and was developed in South Africa in 1925 ... cheers!

Rust en Vrede -- the land dates back to the 1600's

Ernie Els -- one of the country's best golfers and pretty good vintner

AFRICA, PART 1: CAPE TOWN AND MORE

It is finally time to utter some of my favorite words:  "And, we're off!" Every year at this time, the hubby finishes tax season (for which I thank him profusely) and we are fortunate to take off to yet another planned out, thought through, thoroughly explored part of the world for roughly three weeks.  This year it is South Africa, Zimbabwe and four days of lying on the beach in Mauritius (not shown, but further out in the Indian Ocean).  Lucky us, indeed.

And then there is the getting there ... it is a long way, no matter what route is employed.  In this case, it was via AA and BA: LAX with plane change in Dallas, about 8 hours in London and finally arriving in Cape Town after 36 hours. Kudos to BA's first class cabin. I don't recall how this leg ended up being a true first class experience -- the other two were business; all three using miles-- but it was great.  PJ's, blanket (both of which I kept) and really good food ("to your liking"); but the best was when the staff made the seat into a flat bed complete with sheet and comforter.  That made the 11.5 hours extremely comfy to say the least.

Some shots from the BA flight to Cape Town above;
below is our travel journal and messenger bag courtesy of andBeyond

For this particular journey, my step-by-step path was recounted in a previous post. In short, I was fortunate to have been referred to the company andBeyond, whose planning and guidance proved to be invaluable. Planner extraordinaire Kirsten was amazing, patient, informative and now retired (hope it wasn't me!). The CEO of andBeyond is Joss Kent, whose father founded the iconic Abercrombie and Kent. Joss left A&K and went to their biggest competitor, which I think you might find to be an interesting story.

Our four days in the Cape Town area were based at the One and Only Hotel right on the V&A Waterfront -- walkable and safe for shops, restaurants and getting the lay of the land.  You can read about how we "crashed" a Passover Seder the day we arrived, recounted in another post. Below are photos from the hotel, including a turn-down service wishing us a Happy 30th (not until August but much appreciated!).

The hotel grounds top; extraordinary turn-down with early anniversary wishes

A must-see in the area is The Old Biscuit Mill particularly on Saturday mornings where it is an insane scene of food stalls, arts & crafts and wall-to-wall people.  This was among the main sights seen and enjoyed as we navigated around the city in our rental car while becoming reacquainted with driving on "the wrong side" -- particularly when making turns.   That can be most challenging.

A fabulous and interesting dinner was right in the same area, at The Test Kitchen, the only restaurant on the African continent listed on the World's 50 Best. The booking was made as far in advance as allowed, which turned out to be fortuitous.  I was told repeatedly how difficult it is to get in; in fact, Ellen DeGeneres made quite a stink last year when they would not accommodate her and wife Portia -- the story made the local press.

 

The drive around the Cape of Good Hope is also a must-see.  Eagerly anticipated was the visit to Boulders Beach in Simontown at the penguin colony.  They are abundant in numbers.  Fortunately for both the tourists and the penguins, barriers are set up providing protection from getting too close (their beaks are sharp and they might bite).  What is it about them that is so captivating?  

 

"Baboon crossing" signs along the highway were a good thing.  The traffic stopped dead as the animals emerged on the side of the road and indeed crossed.  Everyone warned us not to feed the baboons as they can become aggressive, so the windows stayed up (except for a few pix).  The Cape itself is breathtaking, as is False Bay.  We took the funicular up near the top while many others braved the steep terrain by hiking up to the original lighthouse or down the sloping rocks.

Baboons above; Cape of Good Hope below followed by a view of False Bay

I am proud to have braved the Cape wheel (with enclosed cabins) for a sweeping view of Table Mountain and Lions Head as I am not a lover of heights. It was worth it on a gorgeous, clear day.   Our last dinner was at The Butcher Shop for steaks cut and served "to your liking."  We are loving the exchange rate in South Africa.  The cost of the prix-fixe dinner at The Test Kitchen was about half what it was at comparable restaurants in Spain last year.  The steak dinner with wine plus 20% tip: about $65 usd.   Good for us; not so good for this country.  Off we go exploring the Cape winelands, to be covered in the next post.