LASTLY, AFRICA PART 8: HITS & MISSES

Herewith, my Hits & Misses from the recent vacation in Africa (in no particular order) ... Hit:   South African Airways -- excellent planes; on-time flights; lovely staff; no baggage issues.  We were told (by a retired pilot) that their maintenance standards are so high, many other airlines use them to service their planes. Major Hit:  The Saxon Hotel, Johannesburg -- beyond gorgeous and luxurious with impeccable service. Miss:  No Oprah sightings (the girls school she founded is roughly an hour from the hotel and she is a frequent visitor). Miss:  The mosquito bands and repellents purchased from REI -- good news the mosquitoes were an issue only in one location (The Elephant Camp, Victoria Falls).  Bad news:  Ridiculous amount of bites.   Hit:   My boots  -- Dunham by New Balance from Zappos.  My surgically-repaired foot was still recovering and these were amazing.  And fashion forward, no?  I also recommend compression socks -- mine were knee-hi's -- from TravelSmith.  On long flights, who needs DVT (deep vein thrombosis which is actually very serious). Hit:  Four Seasons Mauritius with the magnificent scenery and international flair. Miss:  American Airlines for changing equipment (i.e. the plane) at the last minute on the overnight Dallas-London.  If you want to compete with the foreign big boys, step up your game. Note that in a recent conversation (after this trip), an AA representative told me that equipment switching is practically ubiquitous and will continue to be so until all the dust settles from the U.S. Airways merger.   Hit:  British Airways -- Loved the first class from London to Cape Town. Hit:  All those photography classes taken years ago.  I am a serial deleter, which not only makes everyone think all my shots are really good (get rid of the bad ones, folks), but reduces the process at home when I make a Shutterfly book.  Many have asked about my camera.  It is a Samsung Galaxy with 21X optical zoom (purchased three years ago).  I saw lots of people carrying enormous cameras and zoom lenses .. just not for me anymore; and perhaps not even necessary with sophistication of today's cameras.   Hit:  The Royal Portfolio, which company operates both La Residence in Franschhoek and Royal Malewane in Kruger National Park.  Cannot say enough about this company, particularly their personnel -- just fabulous. Hit:  The people of Africa.  We met so many wonderful people and loved hearing their stories.  What a joy.

Are you thinking about going somewhere but are stuck getting started? Do you need some ideas and/or expertise in planning your next adventure?   Instead of spending your valuable time, send me an email (travelwithterib@gmail.com) -- and let me help you with all your travel needs!

AFRICA, PART 7: TWO DAYS IN JOHANNESBURG AND THE LONG RETURN TO LAX

If ever there were an oasis in the middle of a big city, then The Saxon Hotel in Johannesburg is the perfect example.  Frankly, I'm hard pressed to find anywhere that I'd rather not leave ... ever.  So if you can't find the hubby and me at some point, check this spectacular hotel first. Indeed, I declared in a previous post that I was never leaving (in the Cape Winelands), but that only reinforced how many incredible spots there are to enjoy in South Africa (click for previous posts). This hotel has major provenance as it was where Nelson Mandela stayed after his prison release, and where he likewise stayed while writing "The Long Walk to Freedom."  His presence can be felt everywhere on the premises, owned by South African insurance magnate Douw Steyn.  The hotel was previously Mr. Steyn's personal residence in the Sandhurst area of J'berg.  For a bit of context, my daily commute in Los Angeles regularly goes through some extremely pricey real estate.  NEVER have I seen such huge estates as exist in the hotel's area -- with walls that are at least 12' high on top of which is barbed wire, plus massive gates with manned security booths prior to entry and guards on top of that. Not sure if that is a status symbol or an unfortunate statement about what is necessary for protection.  Our driver Mpho told us things have gotten better in recent times ... Beyond those walls are extraordinary estates ...  We had two nights at the hotel -- book-ended by four nights in Mauritius (read here), and would have loved more time to just soak it all in.   I would route a future trip via J'berg just to go back ...

AFRICA, PART 6: MAURITIUS (Where??) FOR R & R

Would you agree with me that the value of time spent on vacation is priceless?  I'm thinking you do. Few people would want to miss a thing.  But scheduling in "down time" has also proved invaluable as one can only be "on the run" for so long without either losing it with your companion or falling asleep in the middle of a tour (I dozed off on nearly every early-morning safari ride!). Thus, I always like to schedule in a couple of R&R days if possible nearing the end of a long journey (click here for where we've been).  You know how you hear from many that they need a vacation from their vacation?  These "do-nothing" days help solve that problem .. And that brings us to the island of Mauritius, a 3.5-hour flight from Johannesburg, in the Indian Ocean off the east coast of Africa. There are over 100 different resorts on this island of 1.2 million inhabitants, ranging from the high-end:  Four Seasons, One & Only and Oberoi, on down to places of all price points, with one good-sized airport serving all.  The residents rely principally on tourism for their income, followed by export products sugar cane, pineapple and other tropical fruits. A smaller portion of the economy is the textile industry. View from the plane ...  Being a sucker for white-sand beaches, I decided on Mauritius over other choices: Madagascar (vanilla, anyone?), Mozambique, or the too-far-away Seychelles (off the coast of Tanzania).  This island got the nod because of the variety of resorts available plus a reasonable travel time from Johannesburg, where we stayed after Zimbabwe and where we must return for our flight home.   Four Seasons "check-in," which actually took place  in the bar area .. that was a lovely welcome! The biggest challenge was the sticker shock coming from the dirt-cheap ZAR (South African rand) to the Mauritian rupee, plus the fact that most of our previous stops were basically "all inclusive" -- especially on safari -- with incredible food and superior wines, liquor and well-stocked minibars. Good thing it was dark at dinner the first evening where the Hubby calculated the cost of my minestrone at $22.  Ooopsie.  I put an end to that by insisting he turn off his internal currency converter for the stay ... I'll skip the spa treatments (massages were maybe $75 on safari and start at $200+ at this resort) and opt for the "free" water activities offered while enjoying the gorgeous landscape. Above: one of the many amenities offered, which included cold towels, fresh fruit & Evian facial spray. Clearly we felt we've now seen it all when the young man at right approached and said "May I clean your glasses?"  We're done. Time to go home ...   We enjoyed beautiful and clear weather, sans rain, but with such prominent winds that snorkeling wasn't available (the water current was too strong) nor could the pool umbrellas be opened for fear of toppling over.  Small price to pay for this island paradise. Yet every meal or beach/pool stay or even a gym visit had most everyone glued at their devices.  Sadly it is a world-wide epidemic.                                View from our patio (loved the plunge pool) Savor some of the beauty below.... I'll be back soon to report on the Johannesburg stay, the long journey home, plus my Africa "Hits & Misses."   The view at left and above are actually one and the same. Endless water options (wading pool into infinity pool overlooking ocean).  All things coconut near the pool ..  All alone in the pool and loving it ..

Are you thinking about going somewhere but are stuck getting started? Do you need some ideas and/or expertise in planning your next adventure?   Instead of spending your valuable time, send me an email (travelwithterib@gmail.com) -- and let me help you with all your travel needs!

AFRICA, PART 5: ZAMBIA(!), ZIMBABWE & VICTORIA FALLS

"I think we're landing in Zambia!  I didn't know we were going there!!"  And that was the entry to stop #5 on our African holiday (click here for previous). I knew the airport destination was called Livingstone (as in "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?"), but the Zambian part was a surprise.   It was a very short and somewhat costly stay.  Between the entrance visa paid at the airport, and then the additional fee paid at the border between the two countries, it was under an hour and about $220. Good news is we were ably met and guided (all pre-arranged by &Beyond) by Joseph for the Zambian part, and then handed off to Tinus to make sure we and our bags made it safely to The Elephant Camp in Victoria Falls.  The tariff for the Zambian-registered vehicle to continue over the border would have been prohibitive so this plan was employed. Crossing between Zambia & Zimbabwe First sight of the falls on airport approach above; view below from our terrace with the spray shooting up. Annie & Brad White are the general managers of the camp (like pretty much everything else in the area, part of Wild Horizons) and welcomed us upon arrival. We were shown to "tent" 3 -- sitting area, king bed, en suite bath, deck and plunge pool.  While considered luxury accommodations, these were very different than the two camps in South Africa, and about as close to camping as the hubby and I want to be at this stage in our lives -- for me, maybe ever. Above: our tent below: looking around to the deck and plunge pool. To give some context, when my sisters and I were young, we went on a family trip to Yosemite National Park.  The first time our dad had an insect encounter, we packed up and headed straight to Las Vegas. Not much has changed .. we are clearly not the camping types.   The Elephant Camp staff was terrific nonetheless and put up with the hubby's endless banter and attempted jokes so that's a very good thing. In particular, there was assistant manager Moses who the hubby  kept calling "the leader of our people." And no doubt the biggest challenge on this brief stay was "mosquito abatement" -- regrettably nothing we had (spray, wristbands, etc) did much good.  Mosquitoes were the clear winners in this battle.  At left:  those are towels folded in the shape of an elephant's head and trunk, holding a welcome note ...    Pinpointing our location ...  We had a wonderful encounter with Sylvester, a 7-year-old cheetah who was lucky to have been rescued after his family was killed.  He has been raised "domestically" and walks around on a leash.  I guess he was ready for a nap ... all 170 lbs of him.  We were so fortunate to have a guide by the name of Vusa lead us on our tour of the area.  Learning English is compulsory in his native Zimbabwe, and his was beautiful and articulate. We learned he previously had been with &Beyond where he met and subsequently married Thembi who works both as a masseuse and in guest relations at another area hotel. They have two young sons. I tell you this because no matter     Vusa and Thembi where we go, the life challenges are the same for most all when it comes to child rearing and relationships. Vusa even helped us navigate the gifts purchased from "Mr. Discount" outside of the falls.  The hubby had fun with that negotiation ... The powerful spray appears to blur the photo -- lenses must be regularly dried off.  Below, the hubby & Vusa deep in conversation.  Neither the coats nor umbrellas really do much to keep anyone dry.

Ode to Dr. Livingstone at left; above is one of the many rainbows visible through the spray

Left:  view of the lower area.   Those ropes suspended above the water are for the daredevils (clearly not us).   The photo above shows the contrast in the landscape just outside the spray's reach.  Dry as a bone .. Near the spray was a rain forest.

 

Above is a Vivid Monkey -- so called because his "bottom" (not really the name of the body part) is an absolutely gorgeous shade of blue.

Above is a baby baboon whose family was very close by (she didn't appear to have "permission" to venture far)

Four countries converge near Victoria Falls:  Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia.  The falls straddle the two "Z" countries from the Zambesi River, which is the fourth longest in Africa after the Nile, Congo and Niger.

"Rush hour" on the Zambesi River -- on our sunset cruise

Male of this pod showing he's boss

 

As for us, this post was mostly written while sitting in the very modern Victoria Falls airport, eating pizza and waiting to depart for Johannesburg -- flight time a mere 1-1/2 hours (south). To be continued ... 

AFRICA,PART 4: THREE NIGHTS IN A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Tales of the recent trip to Africa continue with the next stop after our stay in Kruger National Park at Royal Malewane (see previous post). We were transported two hours southeast to Londolozi in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve.   Our camps: #17 Londolozi; #28 Royal Malewane Londolozi is a private concern, comprising 32 accommodations divided among five different camps (based on families with children, adults only, price range). The chef oversees food for all of the various areas. Our digs in the Tree Camp were similar to Royal Malewane -- living area, bedroom, deck with plunge pool and incredible bath including an outdoor shower. No TV anywhere which was a very good thing.  Happy to take a break.   This reserve has been in the same family since 1926 and comprises roughly 40,000 acres.  The company also operates a tracking academy where both trackers in training and/or those already working spend up to 10 hours a day learning how to find all the various animals -- perhaps by footprint but sometimes based on the sounds other animals are making.   Londolozi Tracker Academy Guests are awoken at 5:30am with a knock and (thankfully) coffee delivered prior to leaving on the 6am morning drive.  After a luscious breakfast upon return, the day was free. The evening drive departure depends on the time of year; for us it was 3:30 p.m. Prior to heading out, we were invited to convene in the bar area where a selection of lovely food was offered to tide us over until dinner. This is beginning to sound like a cruise ship (any other similarities definitely end there). Breakfast started like this ...  One of the high points of Londolozi was the hour offered in the photo studio with expert guidance on how to best edit some of my shots.  Of course I "had" to select a few which were printed on canvas and delivered to the room, beautifully wrapped for transporting home.  They looked like paintings .. It is a fabulous benefit of staying at this establishment as nearly everyone wants to capture the experience.  They also have a variety of cameras and powerful lenses available to guests to rent on the drives. Editing one of my photos with expert Roxy -- I was given a flash drive afterwards with the work we (she) had done. The hubby and I tried to stick to our guns of not comparing the two safari camps we were privileged to experience but rather savor them both.  If pressed, I would say it comes down to personal taste in decor or food; maybe making ongoing connections with other guests.  One would be hard pressed to find faults with either, given the attention to the smallest detail and level of luxury provided guests in the middle of vast African wilderness.  All I can say is this: If you have the opportunity, go. It is extraordinary. We were in the middle of an enormous herd of Cape Buffalo -- probably 500 in all.  They just kept coming and coming.  We had stopped for cocktails when the one below got a little too close so it back in the vehicle pdq. The spectacular scenery and colors The baby was no more than 6-8 weeks Maribou Stork -- hand's down the ugliest bird. Ever. And nasty.  Cocktail hour was interrupted when this Cape Buffalo got a little too close; one of about 500 in a nearby herd. Even in repose, the undisputed King of the Jungle night and day ...   This beauty is full grown; about 7-8 years old.  Below, doing her stretches. Fortunately for the guests, the animals have grown up around the safari vehicles and thus are unfazed.  Still, great caution is taken for the safety of all.   And this was how we left Sabi Sand for a larger airport in Nelspruit en route to the next stop: Zimbabwe.  This "airplane" was piloted by two very young men (they looked about 12).  The first landing attempt was aborted due to antelope on the runway ... something one doesn't see everyday.  More to follow as we continue our journey.