Saturday, January 13, 2018

TEXAS HOSPITALITY FOR BIRTHDAY WEEKEND

When the opportunity arose to spend my birthday weekend with long-time Houston-based friends Kay & Fred Zeidman, the decision didn't require much thought.  Spending time with them is always a blast (Cancun, Colorado Springs, Palm Beach, Austin and DC among past destinations), but going to their home base allowed for time spent with their kids and grandkids as well.  The suggestion of the weekend in the country was particularly enticing with new areas to experience -- at least for us.

How about that Texas Hill Country (THC), y'all?  The drive time is less than four hours from Houston -- southwest of Austin and northwest of San Antonio.  We stayed in Fredericksburg, which is "deep in the heart" of the THC.  In addition to local agriculture specialties of peaches and pecans, you might be surprised as I was that there are over 400 wineries in the area!  



As for accommodations, I found the Fredericksburg Herb Farm offering individual cottages.  Small and quaint, the location is minutes from all the action on Main Street.  While the cottages do not come equipped with a telephone(!), there is a flatscreen T.V., large room and bath, and friendly cats belonging to the property that are only too eager to come on in.  Each cottage has its own porch swing.  Clearly it would be optimal to visit when the garden is in full swing (what place isn't?), but there was something lovely about the winter setting.  
Our cottage (L);
An idyllic walkway photographed in the morning (above) 
We had some outstanding meals along the way, most of which were suggested, so for me that was a win-win!  First was Navajo Grill in Fredericksburg for an incredible burger but all-around delicious food.  The BBQ enjoyed along with excellent music (played by Austin studio musicians) and dancing (we watched) made for a fun Saturday night at Hondo's on Main, not to mention a trip to the DQ for the perfect dessert.  Watching the planes land while dining next to the runway at the Hangar Hotel Diner was too cool, although you'd never get me up in that wind!  The pancakes were to die for ...
Breakfast crowd at the Hangar Hotel Diner
Saturday night at Hondo's

A high point of the trip was visiting the National Museum of the Pacific War aka Admiral Nimitz Museum.  The Admiral was a Fredericksburg native so it is only fitting that this museum is located in his hometown.  The replica of his eponymous battleship (SS Nimitz - still in service) is a sight to behold, providing context for just how massive the actual ship is (nearly 1,100 feet long, just shy of four football fields).  Fredericksburg may be a small town, but this museum is world class. 

A small section of the incredible replica on display at the museum.  
 
If I lived in Texas, I would take road trips just for a stop at Buc-ee's.  To call these behemoths "convenience stores" is like calling Lake Michigan a "water feature."  Maybe a slight overstatement, but you get my drift.  Endless gas pumps (cheap!); ridiculously clean and plentiful bathrooms; and everything else from used tires to $1,500 smokers.  We sampled a chopped bbq brisket sandwich, fresh-made chips and a drink for under $8 and it was delicious -- cooked on the spot.  
Everything's bigger in Texas:  jerky (above);
gas pumps and packaged ice below

                           And then a small portion of the gift area!  
 

Love my surprise Buc-ee's t-shirt which required major subterfuge on Kay's part! She pulled it off!  
The not-so-wonderful find on the highway was the automobile "graveyard," site of countless cars destroyed in Hurricane Harvey.  
 

We also toured the devastation, largely in the Meyerland area of Houston, where home after home is abandoned and/or under construction.  Never have I counted my blessings on my birthday as I did that day.  It was stunning.

Homes are elevated to avoid a repeat of the past; endless For Sale signs; new front steps; the bayou now

We finished the stay with a fun dinner at Relish back in Houston (amazing fried chicken) and watched the exciting BCS game before heading out the next morning.  Great friends, great fun, great food ... thankful for this great start to 2018!




Tuesday, December 26, 2017

BYE, BYE 2017 ... HELLO, 2018!

Once again, it's time to look back on where we went in 2017 ...
Cabo San Lucas
India (Delhi/Agra/Ranthambhore/Jaipur/Udaipur)
The Maldives
Western Australia (Perth, Margaret River)
Hong Kong
Atlanta & Fort Lauderdale/Boca/Miami
Boston & Providence (RI)
Portland, OR

Image result for new year 2018 wallpaper

And look forward to where we are going in 2018 ...
Houston and Texas Hill Country
Finland/Estonia/Latvia/Lithuania/Belarus
Moscow & St. Petersburg
Seattle
Detroit
Greece (Athens/Mykonos/Santorini)
Thanksgiving in Charleston and Savannah

May all your travels be memorable for the right reasons! Thank you for taking this journey with me ... 

Monday, December 11, 2017

CHECKING OUT LA'S NEWEST STAR CHEF

Was scheduling a dinner in December at The Grove, one of LA's busiest open-air shopping/dining malls, the brightest idea?  Probably not.  Believe me, I heard plenty as the hubby, daughter (her birthday dinner) and son arrived in separate cars all juggling to find that coveted parking space.
 
Happily, dinner at 189 by Dominque Ansel was well worth some minor inconvenience.  And what was so compelling about this particular venue?  Chef Ansel has gained enormous notoriety for introducing the world to the Cronut (part croissant, part donut), first served at his eponymous Soho bakery back in 2013.  Frankly I hadn't heard of him personally, just of the item.  So when reading about the newest openings in LA, I thought this must be worth a try.  

Amazing croissants and bread above; right are some pastry with the exquisite packaging.
We had a mini version of the gooseberry pavlova for dessert -- scrumptious!
The restaurant is above the bakery (open until 9pm).  Alas, the cronuts had run out by the time I arrived but I did sample some incredible croissant and everything is beautifully displayed.  

 


What I liked most about the restaurant was the very well-informed staff guiding us through the appropriate number of dishes (4 small/3 larger) all meant to be shared.  The order of excellent "salt & pepper ribs" comes with three but they enlarged it to four so we'd each have one.  That may seem like a small detail, but not having to get a second full order was appreciated.

I love to sit at the counter and watch the action
As one might expect, the "48-hour Handmade Sourdough & Butter" was perfection -- not a surprise since Chef Ansel is first and foremost a baker.  The other outstanding dishes were the roasted radicchio salad, eggplant and fig tartine and the lamb shoulder was a huge hit.  The "Spoon-tender Cabbage Soup" -- similar in presentation to french onion -- was the only miss of the dinner.  Why?  Too smoky for our taste.  Our server was very interested in how to communicate our feedback to the kitchen as that is how they learn this early in their operation (open just a month).

Left:  the sourdough; 
above: roasted radicchio salad;
Fig and eggplant tartine
Frankly I don't know all what we had for dessert except the pavlova mentioned above; I think some were compliments for the birthday or maybe they just liked us!  All were delicious.  
 
So what's the takeaway?  I'm going back for a return visit with some fellow foodies, happily after the holiday season.  Going to The Grove is a fun and delicious experience; just know that their parking can be a wild ride at peak times of the year!

Tuesday, November 28, 2017

WHY PORTLAND?

Many regular readers know that the hubby and I have a several-years-old tradition of spending Thanksgiving somewhere outside of LA with the son and the daughter.  It started in 2007 with a trip to London and has continued since with domestic trips to NY, Chicago, New Orleans (twice), Napa, Nashville and this year in Portland.  Why Portland?  Why not?!  This hip town is a mecca for food and wine, not to mention no sales tax, gorgeous scenery and easy access. So off we went.  

Yours truly typically lays out the things to do and see for these trips.  But having son Sam as the family's resident sommelier (and founder of The Cellar Beverly Hills) in this wine-centric region certainly took the burden off me; he secured the winery visits (five the first day) and I sourced the restaurants.  I'm not sure why Higgins wasn't originally part of the plan, but in retrospect I am delighted the hotel sent the hubby and me there the first night (the kids flew in later).  It was a spectacular choice and a harbinger of the food scene in the area (dishes below).
Above:  the most perfectly cooked fresh halibut with vegetables;  Below:  am I the only one who never heard of Bostock?  Wow -- a combination of bread pudding and scone but crispy on the outside and tender inside.  Oh my.
  
The Willamette Valley -- roughly an hour outside of Portland -- produces some of the finest Pinot Noir wines around.  That is my drink of choice so I was a happy camper to the extent I could taste a bit and still be the designated driver.  While not tasting, the scenery provided an exquisite backdrop -- fall foliage at it's peak with pockets of mist.  We were thankful to experience such beauty all around.



Newberg Ferry Crossing -- positively ethereal
Breathtaking foliage 

Imagine having this view every day ...  Bethel Heights
Portland's iconic landmark, Powell's Books, was open Thanksgiving Day making our "what should we do until dinner" decision an easy one.  The store comprises a full city block with multiple floors and a massive amount of titles.  I'm not sure how shoppers found one another before everyone had a cell phone, making the "where are you" challenge much easier. Fun fact:  If you're perplexed as to how to get your purchases home, Powell's calculates shipping cost by the number of items and not by the weight.  So the son purchased five hefty coffee table books and the cost for shipping was $9 -- much less than UPS ground.  Avid reader Hannah made not one but two trips to Barnes & Noble on Black Friday for amazing deals.  We did our share to help the Portland economy for sure. 

 


Bistro Maison in McMinnville laid out a beautiful table; traditional Thanksgiving meal (there were other options); deserts (pecan pie and fruit crisp)
A most fun surprise for us NCAA basketball fans was discovering the PK80 tournament taking place in Portland in honor of (Nike founder) Phil Knight's 80th birthday.  The boys went off to see beloved Ohio State Buckeyes take on Gonzaga after Thanksgiving dinner. It was great fun seeing lots of players and their families at our hotel (UConn, Butler and Texas).  

Exploring the Nike Headquarters in nearby Beaverton is a must.  The vast campus offers every type of training facility -- full size -- including track, soccer, basketball, beach volleyball and work-out facilities not to be believed.  It is a spectacular setting  with a serene lake right in the middle.  Although pretty much vacant (Friday), one still could see just how cool a place this must be to come to work.  We did wonder if EVERYONE in the company is fit and works out.  Any diversity allowed in that department?
 
Likely no one is using this parking space
No caption required
Running track on the campus

The "last supper" was at The Hairy Lobster; photos and description below.
Shared plates: seared scallops, whole trout; indulgent ribeye and a chocolate/peanut/mousse concoction!
Morning view of Mt. Hood from our hotel room across the Willamette River
By now, the "Why Portland" question should be well settled.  A visit is highly recommended.   By the way, next year is already decided: a week in Charleston & Savannah.

Accommodations:  Portland Downtown Marriott on the Willamette River
Wineries:  Bethel Heights, Cristom, Eyrie, Arterberry Maresh, Domaine Serene, Bergstrom
Dining:   411 Lounge, Valley Commissary, Bistro Maison, The Hairy Lobster, Higgins, Little Bird Bistro, Cheryl's on 12th

Monday, November 13, 2017

A LOCAL GEM

Do you ever pass by somewhere in your town and think, "I can't remember the last time I was here."  I do.  But do I actually act on it?  

When given the opportunity to visit the Norton Simon Museum, located in Pasadena just 20 minutes or so from my home, I signed up -- especially with a private tour and docent arranged through my executive women's group.  Immediately upon arriving I asked myself  "Why has it been so long in between visits?  I love this place!" 

Vincent Van Gogh self portrait
The museum became known as the Norton Simon in 1975 but its origins -- through various iterations -- actually date back to the 1920's.  What I particularly love about the structure is that it is so "manageable."  One doesn't get that feeling of being completely overwhelmed when visiting so many other museums.  You know the feeling:  you don't want to miss anything and you can't really figure out how to tackle it.  Frankly I was stunned to read the museum's square footage is 85,000, for it seems smaller to me.  I suppose with a collection spanning more than 12,000 pieces, a significant space is required.  But the beauty of this museum is it's intimate feeling.  To get a sense of proportion, can you guess the size of the Metropolitan Museum in NYC?  How about 2,000,000 square feet?  That's one heck of a space ..

Above, "Assembly of Sea Forms" in white marble by Barbara Hepworth

Left, "Tall Figure IV" by Alberto Giacometti stands 9-10'; 
With dear friends and fellow members of the Organization of Women Executives. The museum outing was part of our Culture Group.  I chair our Foodies Group (no surprise there).

On this beautiful fall day, the sculpture garden was an absolutely ideal setting.   With magnificent pieces by Henry Moore, Rodin and Maillol, one could really get lost in thought while strolling around the Lilly Pond stocked with ducks.  So peaceful.  

Aristede Maillol's "Mountain"
The magnificent pond
Henri Laurens' "Les Ondines" 

Rather than hearing from me, go and then go back again.  I plan to and soon.  This spot is truly a gem in LA's busy metropolis.  

The museum is open daily except Tuesdays. 

Saturday, November 4, 2017

DEAR VIRGIN AMERICA: WE'RE THROUGH

You know how one has that sinking feeling that something just isn't going right?  Well, my suggestion is to always trust your instincts because you're probably on to Something ... 
 
My initial clue that flying round-trip from LAX to Boston on Virgin America was going to be problematic was not being able to check in online due to their website problems.  A phone call to the airlines was required, only to be walked through their myriad choices.  Finally success achieved.

Upon boarding, I was asked by the attendant if my small carry-on needed to be stowed.  He suggested I take the first available bin.  I said, "Would you help me lift this?  I have a sore arm."  His reply:  "So do I."  Upon which the nearest passenger stood up for the assist.  The flight proceeded fine, although another attendant was quite snarky ... where's Southwest when you need them?
Image result for SORE ARM IMAGES
The return was the nightmare.  First, no email received:  "It's time for you to check-in!"  No pre-flight alerts that had been signed up for just days earlier.  Unable to check in online.  Another call to the airlines left me uncertain.  She just didn't exude confidence upon confirming our reservation was indeed there, including exit row seats (extra $$) and pre-paid baggage fees (3 x $25 ea). 

At the airport (we arrived 4pm for a 5:50 departure), we were told 1) It was too late to check our bags because the plane was departing at 4:40; 2) We were still in the record for the now non-existent 5:50 flight but nowhere to be found in the 4:40 flight; and, 3) only a supervisor could do anything.  So where's the supervisor?  He's with another customer; he's on his way; he'll be here in five minutes; he'll be here in four minutes; he's at the gate; he's still on his way, etc., etc.  

Some 45 minutes later, said supervisor arrived.  The only option at this point (east coast flights were still reeling from the various hurricanes) was Boston-JFK-LAX on JetBlue.  We check our bags and clear security. Except at the JetBlue gate, we learned we had missed our takeoff window due to fog rolling in.  With the now-delayed departure, we'd miss our JFK connection.  Another 45 minutes in line at the "Just Ask" counter yielded basically no solutions.  We even considered renting a car, driving to NYC to make the first-out flight from JFK at 6am.  

Image result for IMAGES FOR ALERTS

And then our savior appeared from the heavens in the form of the JB gate attendant.  To summarize, we split the reservation so son Sam and daughter Hannah could leave that evening on a non-stop JB flight, arriving at about 1 a.m. -- at least they could get back to work.  The hubby and I would get a room at the airport ($230 for 7 hours) and fly out the next morning at 7 a.m.; arriving around 10:30 a.m.  Where the hell were our bags?  JetBlue had the tags and promised delivery to our home Monday afternoon, which promise they kept. 

Thaftermath?  All of these gory details were conveyed to VA via their website.  Full disclosure:  I did receive a schedule change back in July, found in my trash email.  Yet VA kept us on the non-existent 5:50 flight which they confirmed to me multiple times and never transferred our reservation when they changed the schedule.  Thus we wouldn't have gotten on the 4:40 flight no matter how early we arrived.  After two weeks of back-and-forth emails, we were provided $500 in credit toward future flights.  I can hardly wait to experience the airline again.  My Twitter wrath is below ... of course, the promised email never arrived.