REMEMBER WHEN??

Early 2018 was the perfect time to clean up old files (cue: New Year's Resolution #3).  Upon doing so, I soon I discovered all my records from our first big trip in this century:  Italy - Spring 2001.

What it took then versus how I plan now might as well be from a different universe.  And yet some things never change ... like my obsession with whatever shopping might be available!  Italy was still on the lire way back then (oh, the days), and everything was at least 40% less than in the US.  I found catalog tear-out sheets in my folder which I brought on the trip so I could compare the cost of items I wanted to find when I got to Rome or Milan.  

The iconic Via Condotti with the Spanish Steps in the background.

The reality: we arrived in Rome, had lunch, checked into the hotel, the hubby took a nap and I went out and bought five handbags.  That was the end of my "alone time" for the remaining three weeks.  But, oh, how much fun I had!

How about the above for a fun walk down memory lane.  That is a copy of the VCR "taping schedule" for the three weeks we were gone. There was no On-Demand or DVR in those days, so if you didn't get the recording you were out of luck.  I think there was a performance bonus offered as well ... of course, I'm sure son Sam (age 12 at that time) was in charge so we likely got all the shows. 

Other fun memories:  printed, multiple-part airline tickets that arrived in the mail!  I loved looking at all those codes and wondering what they meant.  But when I think back to things like seat assignments and how neurotic I have become about where I sit (www.seatguru.com is one of my very favorite websites), it's hard to imagine going in "blind."  Well, we didn't know what we didn't know; right?  

we all lament the trials and tribulations of travel today.  When you are having an "experience," I suggest you (and I!) remember when ... and appreciate how streamlined and easy the process has become.

TRAVEL IN 2018 :: WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW

"The times they are a changin" is an apt phrase in terms of travel in 2018.  So as not to get caught unprepared, following is a synopsis of what to expect from an excellent column by the Wall Street Journal's travel specialist, Scott McCartney.

1. The bad news first is "more seats, less room."  On a recent Southwest flight, I tweeted the photo below to @flyswa to let them know I appreciated their moving the pocket holding magazines to the top of the seat-back in front of me, thus providing more legroom. After visiting the lavatory, however, it was clear where they must have taken the space from -- anyone with claustrophobia will have a tough time in that tiny room! 

 

While Southwest didn't add any seats, more of United's 777 planes will have 10 seats across instead of nine, continuing the trend in slimming down the seats themselves.  AA and many foreign carriers already made that change, while Delta has not.  The slim-seat retrofit is fondly called "densification."  

2. Changes to how and what ID's are accepted and verified is a big one.  Get a Passport and keep it handy, even for domestic travel, seems to be the key.  States were required in 2005 to update their procedures but barely 50% have complied.  While it's unlikely TSA will have the guts to stop accepting state issued ID's (drivers licenses), you might as well be prepared.   They are also testing a program in certain airports eliminating boarding passes to go through security as ID's are more reliable via machines called Credential Authentication Technology (below).   

Photo cred:  Stephen Voss, WSJ

While those results are still being evaluated, we do know there are stricter carry-on rules being implemented.  Unless you have TSA Pre-check, security wants carry-on bags "decluttered" as much as possible so X-ray machines have a better view of what's in your bag.  Any and all electronics larger than a cellphone must be placed in a separate bin.

I say we put Amazon in charge of the lines!

3. Anyone I've ever spoken to has only rave reviews for the Premium Economy experience, especially when comparing the cost vs. Business or First.  "Think of PE as what Business Class used to be prior to fully lie-flat beds" per the column.  American Air is actually leading the competition for US carriers on international flights, with Delta second and United lagging behind.  Catching up to international rivals is a long-time coming, especially the Gulf carriers (Emirates, Etihad and Qatar) with their insane amenities.

American Airlines Premium Economy seat

4. Lastly, if you're thinking about investing in a "Smart Bag" complete with GPS tracking and power ports to charge devices -- don't.  It's all about those pesky lithium batteries and the ongoing debate about their safety.  Most domestic carriers won't allow the bags to be checked unless the batteries are removed and carry-on is the same.  There seem to be more outlets everywhere -- airline terminals and plane seats -- so why fight it?  Ditch the lithium and the stress.  Travel can be stressful enough!    

Great concept, particularly for "road warriors" -- 

but will the TSA allow is the big question.

TEXAS HOSPITALITY FOR BIRTHDAY WEEKEND

When the opportunity arose to spend my birthday weekend with long-time Houston-based friends Kay & Fred Zeidman, the decision didn't require much thought.  Spending time with them is always a blast (Cancun, Colorado Springs, Palm Beach, Austin and DC among past destinations), but going to their home base allowed for time spent with their kids and grandkids as well.  The suggestion of the weekend in the country was particularly enticing with new areas to experience -- at least for us.

How about that Texas Hill Country (THC), y'all?  The drive time is less than four hours from Houston -- southwest of Austin and northwest of San Antonio.  We stayed in Fredericksburg, which is "deep in the heart" of the THC.  In addition to local agriculture specialties of peaches and pecans, you might be surprised as I was that there are over 400 wineries in the area!  

As for accommodations, I found the Fredericksburg Herb Farm offering individual cottages.  Small and quaint, the location is minutes from all the action on Main Street.  While the cottages do not come equipped with a telephone(!), there is a flatscreen T.V., large room and bath, and friendly cats belonging to the property that are only too eager to come on in.  Each cottage has its own porch swing.  Clearly it would be optimal to visit when the garden is in full swing (what place isn't?), but there was something lovely about the winter setting.  

Our cottage (L); An idyllic walkway photographed in the morning (above)

We had some outstanding meals along the way, most of which were suggested, so for me that was a win-win!  First was Navajo Grill in Fredericksburg for an incredible burger but all-around delicious food.  The BBQ enjoyed along with excellent music (played by Austin studio musicians) and dancing (we watched) made for a fun Saturday night at Hondo's on Main, not to mention a trip to the DQ for the perfect dessert.  Watching the planes land while dining next to the runway at the Hangar Hotel Diner was too cool, although you'd never get me up in that wind!  The pancakes were to die for ...

Breakfast crowd at the Hangar Hotel Diner

Saturday night at Hondo's

A high point of the trip was visiting the National Museum of the Pacific War aka Admiral Nimitz Museum.  The Admiral was a Fredericksburg native so it is only fitting that this museum is located in his hometown.  The replica of his eponymous battleship (SS Nimitz - still in service) is a sight to behold, providing context for just how massive the actual ship is (nearly 1,100 feet long, just shy of four football fields).  Fredericksburg may be a small town, but this museum is world class. 

A small section of the incredible replica on display at the museum.

 

If I lived in Texas, I would take road trips just for a stop at Buc-ee's.  To call these behemoths "convenience stores" is like calling Lake Michigan a "water feature."  Maybe a slight overstatement, but you get my drift.  Endless gas pumps (cheap!); ridiculously clean and plentiful bathrooms; and everything else from used tires to $1,500 smokers.  We sampled a chopped bbq brisket sandwich, fresh-made chips and a drink for under $8 and it was delicious -- cooked on the spot.  

Everything's bigger in Texas:  jerky (above); gas pumps and packaged ice below

                           And then a small portion of the gift area!  

 

Love my surprise Buc-ee's t-shirt which required major subterfuge on Kay's part! She pulled it off!

The not-so-wonderful find on the highway was the automobile "graveyard," site of countless cars destroyed in Hurricane Harvey.  

 

We also toured the devastation, largely in the Meyerland area of Houston, where home after home is abandoned and/or under construction.  Never have I counted my blessings on my birthday as I did that day.  It was stunning.

Homes are elevated to avoid a repeat of the past; endless For Sale signs; new front steps; the bayou now

We finished the stay with a fun dinner at Relish back in Houston (amazing fried chicken) and watched the exciting BCS game before heading out the next morning.  Great friends, great fun, great food ... thankful for this great start to 2018!

BYE, BYE 2017 ... HELLO, 2018!

Once again, it's time to look back on where we went in 2017 ...

Cabo San Lucas

India (Delhi/Agra/Ranthambhore/Jaipur/Udaipur)
The Maldives
Western Australia (Perth, Margaret River)
Hong Kong
Atlanta & Fort Lauderdale/Boca/Miami
Boston & Providence (RI)
Portland, OR

And look forward to where we are going in 2018 ...

Houston and Texas Hill Country

Finland/Estonia/Latvia/Lithuania/Belarus

Moscow & St. Petersburg

Seattle

Detroit

Greece (Athens/Mykonos/Santorini)

Thanksgiving in Charleston and Savannah

May all your travels be memorable for the right reasons! Thank you for taking this journey with me ... 

CHECKING OUT LA'S NEWEST STAR CHEF

Was scheduling a dinner in December at The Grove, one of LA's busiest open-air shopping/dining malls, the brightest idea?  Probably not.  Believe me, I heard plenty as the hubby, daughter (her birthday dinner) and son arrived in separate cars all juggling to find that coveted parking space.

 

Happily, dinner at 189 by Dominque Ansel was well worth some minor inconvenience.  And what was so compelling about this particular venue?  Chef Ansel has gained enormous notoriety for introducing the world to the Cronut (part croissant, part donut), first served at his eponymous Soho bakery back in 2013.  Frankly I hadn't heard of him personally, just of the item.  So when reading about the newest openings in LA, I thought this must be worth a try.  

Amazing croissants and bread above; right are some pastry with the exquisite packaging.

We had a mini version of the gooseberry pavlova for dessert -- scrumptious!

The restaurant is above the bakery (open until 9pm).  Alas, the cronuts had run out by the time I arrived but I did sample some incredible croissant and everything is beautifully displayed.  

 

What I liked most about the restaurant was the very well-informed staff guiding us through the appropriate number of dishes (4 small/3 larger) all meant to be shared.  The order of excellent "salt & pepper ribs" comes with three but they enlarged it to four so we'd each have one.  That may seem like a small detail, but not having to get a second full order was appreciated.

I love to sit at the counter and watch the action

As one might expect, the "48-hour Handmade Sourdough & Butter" was perfection -- not a surprise since Chef Ansel is first and foremost a baker.  The other outstanding dishes were the roasted radicchio salad, eggplant and fig tartine and the lamb shoulder was a huge hit.  The "Spoon-tender Cabbage Soup" -- similar in presentation to french onion -- was the only miss of the dinner.  Why?  Too smoky for our taste.  Our server was very interested in how to communicate our feedback to the kitchen as that is how they learn this early in their operation (open just a month).

Left:  the sourdough;  above: roasted radicchio salad;

Fig and eggplant tartine

Frankly I don't know all what we had for dessert except the pavlova mentioned above; I think some were compliments for the birthday or maybe they just liked us!  All were delicious.  

 

So what's the takeaway?  I'm going back for a return visit with some fellow foodies, happily after the holiday season.  Going to The Grove is a fun and delicious experience; just know that their parking can be a wild ride at peak times of the year!

WHY PORTLAND?

Many regular readers know that the hubby and I have a several-years-old tradition of spending Thanksgiving somewhere outside of LA with the son and the daughter.  It started in 2007 with a trip to London and has continued since with domestic trips to NY, Chicago, New Orleans (twice), Napa, Nashville and this year in Portland.  Why Portland?  Why not?!  This hip town is a mecca for food and wine, not to mention no sales tax, gorgeous scenery and easy access. So off we went.  

Yours truly typically lays out the things to do and see for these trips.  But having son Sam as the family's resident sommelier (and founder of The Cellar Beverly Hills) in this wine-centric region certainly took the burden off me; he secured the winery visits (five the first day) and I sourced the restaurants.  I'm not sure why Higgins wasn't originally part of the plan, but in retrospect I am delighted the hotel sent the hubby and me there the first night (the kids flew in later).  It was a spectacular choice and a harbinger of the food scene in the area (dishes below).

Above:  the most perfectly cooked fresh halibut with vegetables;  Below:  am I the only one who never heard of Bostock?  Wow -- a combination of bread pudding and scone but crispy on the outside and tender inside.  Oh my.

The Willamette Valley -- roughly an hour outside of Portland -- produces some of the finest Pinot Noir wines around.  That is my drink of choice so I was a happy camper to the extent I could taste a bit and still be the designated driver.  While not tasting, the scenery provided an exquisite backdrop -- fall foliage at it's peak with pockets of mist.  We were thankful to experience such beauty all around.

Newberg Ferry Crossing -- positively ethereal

Breathtaking foliage

Imagine having this view every day ...  Bethel Heights

Portland's iconic landmark, Powell's Books, was open Thanksgiving Day making our "what should we do until dinner" decision an easy one.  The store comprises a full city block with multiple floors and a massive amount of titles.  I'm not sure how shoppers found one another before everyone had a cell phone, making the "where are you" challenge much easier. Fun fact:  If you're perplexed as to how to get your purchases home, Powell's calculates shipping cost by the number of items and not by the weight.  So the son purchased five hefty coffee table books and the cost for shipping was $9 -- much less than UPS ground.  Avid reader Hannah made not one but two trips to Barnes & Noble on Black Friday for amazing deals.  We did our share to help the Portland economy for sure. 

 

Bistro Maison in McMinnville laid out a beautiful table; traditional Thanksgiving meal (there were other options); deserts (pecan pie and fruit crisp)

A most fun surprise for us NCAA basketball fans was discovering the PK80 tournament taking place in Portland in honor of (Nike founder) Phil Knight's 80th birthday.  The boys went off to see beloved Ohio State Buckeyes take on Gonzaga after Thanksgiving dinner. It was great fun seeing lots of players and their families at our hotel (UConn, Butler and Texas).  

Exploring the Nike Headquarters in nearby Beaverton is a must.  The vast campus offers every type of training facility -- full size -- including track, soccer, basketball, beach volleyball and work-out facilities not to be believed.  It is a spectacular setting  with a serene lake right in the middle.  Although pretty much vacant (Friday), one still could see just how cool a place this must be to come to work.  We did wonder if EVERYONE in the company is fit and works out.  Any diversity allowed in that department?

 

Likely no one is using this parking space

No caption required

Running track on the campus

The "last supper" was at The Hairy Lobster; photos and description below.

Shared plates: seared scallops, whole trout; indulgent ribeye and a chocolate/peanut/mousse concoction!

Morning view of Mt. Hood from our hotel room across the Willamette River

By now, the "Why Portland" question should be well settled.  A visit is highly recommended.   By the way, next year is already decided: a week in Charleston & Savannah.

Accommodations:  Portland Downtown Marriott on the Willamette River

Wineries:  Bethel Heights, Cristom, Eyrie, Arterberry Maresh, Domaine Serene, Bergstrom

Dining:   411 Lounge, Valley Commissary, Bistro Maison, The Hairy Lobster, Higgins, Little Bird Bistro, Cheryl's on 12th