BRITISH AIRWAYS: LOOKING FOR A POSITIVE SPIN

Lest this be obvious, the goal of this blog is to be both informational and, at the same time, upbeat.  Life is too short to be relentlessly "doom-and-gloom," and plenty of others provide the news of the day with all of life's inherent challenges.

The next somewhat obvious point is what a privilege it is to travel the globe.  The hubby and I try very hard to remember that point.  We go when we choose, where we choose, and enjoy it to the fullest.

All that said, I can't stand British Airways!  Why take on the "gateway to Europe?" (Not sure if that's an actual reference or I made it up.)  Oh, let me count the ways:  ridiculous taxes for flying through Heathrow, ridiculous charges to pre-book seats, and that front/back seat configuration!  Ugh.

The seating configuration at left requires being a bit of a contortionist if one is in the window seat and needs to get up. Think about this:  you're flying solo on an overnight flight.  There's no way to cleanly step over the person in the aisle seat if it's fully extended.  Who thought this was a good idea?

When it comes to utilizing my accumulated OneWorld miles (acquired mostly through AA Citi Mastercard, but also transferred through Starwood), I prefer online searches.  When all else fails, I'll engage AAdvantage customer service.  Online booking seems to rarely list flights with partner airlines where Europe is concerned; it's all about the BA flights unless one calls the airline directly.  Persistence can payoff -- case in point is our April flights to Helsinki with AA miles:  first to Paris via Air Tahiti Nui, then to Helsinki via Finnair -- I'm very proud of that one!

The most recent travail was finding an acceptable way to return from Athens this October.  I damn-near burnt out my computer with endless searches.  Not willing to spend 135K miles PER PERSON/ONE-WAY(!) to get home, I finally opted for 57.5K each to fly business class from Athens-Heathrow with an overnight, and then Heathrow-LAX the next morning.  A reasonable amount of miles but $773 in taxes!!  FYI, taxes for most similar flights on AA are less than $50 -- even to Hong Kong.  

Aerial view of massive Heathrow

After several unsuccessful calls to AAdvantage, requesting (but not finding) any other OneWorld partners to get us home -- nothing through Barcelona, Madrid, Paris or even Doha(!) -- I capitulated and secured the seats for the Heathrow route.  When it came time to finalize the transaction, the lovely AA person asked for my credit card to charge me the sum of $853.  Wait; what?  Why the higher total?  "That is for the service fee ($40 per person) charged for engaging a live person instead of booking online." Hold the phone! Your website told me I could NOT complete the transaction online; I had to contact AAdvantage to finalize. So you're forcing me to contact you directly, and then charging me for that privilege??!! "Let me speak to your supervisor."  Pause ....  "Mrs. Bialosky, your corrected total is $773."  Why, thank you kindly.  

The final coup de grâce?? Seat selection is unavailable until 24 hours before departure, unless you pay up.  I could have lived with taking our chances for the relatively-shorter flight from Athens to London, but opted to pre-reserve anyway.  Anything other than pre-reserving for the 11+ hours from London to LAX was unthinkable.  Cost for two pre-reserved seats for two flights:  $340.  And now you know why BA makes it so very hard to find a positive spin ...  On the upside, Heathrow has great food and shopping.  So there's that.

BACARA WEEKEND INCLUDES MONTECITO

When a well-known resort just north of Los Angeles changed from being independently operated to the Ritz-Carlton brand, one wondered what the discernible changes might be.  Happily speculation is no longer needed after a recent visit.

Floral perfection greets guests in the lobby.

The raison d'etre for this particular weekend was attending a beloved tradition of the Organization of Women Executives. Our "Spa Weekend" (now "Annual Retreat") convenes at some of Southern California's most desirable destinations: Terranea, Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel and Park Hyatt Aviara (at the time a Four Seasons) along with many previous to Bacara. Our event chair works hard keeping us all happy, which is not an easy task.

The ocean is visible from nearly every part of Bacara.  The view is from the main building.

Concerns about the location were first raised with the dreadful fires that hit the Santa Barbara area especially hard.  At the time we were still six weeks out, plus Bacara is at the north end of Santa Barbara, a considerable distance from the fires.  And then the rains came.  And then mudslides closed Highway 101, the main thoroughfare.  Were we just thinking of ourselves when considering this was not the year to go to this particular spot??

The blessed alert came with two weeks to spare:  The 101 was back in business.  Our collective cheer was both for the residents and what they've gone through plus some for our group.  All was well.

Room service on the patio.  A electronic tablet is in every room where you can request just about anything at the resort (assuming one can figure out how to use it!) This order was placed the night before and arrived on time and correct in every detail.

Bestie/roomie/carpool mate Nancy McGinnis is responsible for the lady on the right.  Stay tuned.  She just might make regular blog appearances.  What should I name her???

As for the resort changes, not much is different about the physical property.  Staff is friendly, attentive, and "at your service."  There were some glitches with changeover in personnel assigned to our group of 54 in terms of the catering.  Some of us noticed (I did), but most thought the entire stay grand.  The food was terrific and it's pretty tough to beat that view.  

The main pool above

Photo credit above & below: Bacara

 

On the way home, we detoured to get a real look at the mudslide damage.  Wow.  Say what you will about the ultra-rich celebrity enclave of Montecito, but Mother Nature doesn't give a hoot about net worth. She is an equal-opportunity devastator when it comes down to it.  Wide swaths of property damage were visible particularly north of Highway 101 on the main roads -- Sheffield Drive, San Ysidro Road and especially East Valley Road that connects the two.  Others were not yet accessible.  The shots below tell the unfortunate tale.

But then there were signs like the one below seen over and over again from grateful residents ... 

 

I'll end on a lighter note.  Not 5 seconds after pulling over to get the shot below, Nancy & I heard:  "MOVE THE CAR OUT OF THE DRIVEWAY!"  Oprah's security doesn't mess around....  

On East Valley Road

REMEMBER WHEN??

Early 2018 was the perfect time to clean up old files (cue: New Year's Resolution #3).  Upon doing so, I soon I discovered all my records from our first big trip in this century:  Italy - Spring 2001.

What it took then versus how I plan now might as well be from a different universe.  And yet some things never change ... like my obsession with whatever shopping might be available!  Italy was still on the lire way back then (oh, the days), and everything was at least 40% less than in the US.  I found catalog tear-out sheets in my folder which I brought on the trip so I could compare the cost of items I wanted to find when I got to Rome or Milan.  

The iconic Via Condotti with the Spanish Steps in the background.

The reality: we arrived in Rome, had lunch, checked into the hotel, the hubby took a nap and I went out and bought five handbags.  That was the end of my "alone time" for the remaining three weeks.  But, oh, how much fun I had!

How about the above for a fun walk down memory lane.  That is a copy of the VCR "taping schedule" for the three weeks we were gone. There was no On-Demand or DVR in those days, so if you didn't get the recording you were out of luck.  I think there was a performance bonus offered as well ... of course, I'm sure son Sam (age 12 at that time) was in charge so we likely got all the shows. 

Other fun memories:  printed, multiple-part airline tickets that arrived in the mail!  I loved looking at all those codes and wondering what they meant.  But when I think back to things like seat assignments and how neurotic I have become about where I sit (www.seatguru.com is one of my very favorite websites), it's hard to imagine going in "blind."  Well, we didn't know what we didn't know; right?  

we all lament the trials and tribulations of travel today.  When you are having an "experience," I suggest you (and I!) remember when ... and appreciate how streamlined and easy the process has become.

TRAVEL IN 2018 :: WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW

"The times they are a changin" is an apt phrase in terms of travel in 2018.  So as not to get caught unprepared, following is a synopsis of what to expect from an excellent column by the Wall Street Journal's travel specialist, Scott McCartney.

1. The bad news first is "more seats, less room."  On a recent Southwest flight, I tweeted the photo below to @flyswa to let them know I appreciated their moving the pocket holding magazines to the top of the seat-back in front of me, thus providing more legroom. After visiting the lavatory, however, it was clear where they must have taken the space from -- anyone with claustrophobia will have a tough time in that tiny room! 

 

While Southwest didn't add any seats, more of United's 777 planes will have 10 seats across instead of nine, continuing the trend in slimming down the seats themselves.  AA and many foreign carriers already made that change, while Delta has not.  The slim-seat retrofit is fondly called "densification."  

2. Changes to how and what ID's are accepted and verified is a big one.  Get a Passport and keep it handy, even for domestic travel, seems to be the key.  States were required in 2005 to update their procedures but barely 50% have complied.  While it's unlikely TSA will have the guts to stop accepting state issued ID's (drivers licenses), you might as well be prepared.   They are also testing a program in certain airports eliminating boarding passes to go through security as ID's are more reliable via machines called Credential Authentication Technology (below).   

Photo cred:  Stephen Voss, WSJ

While those results are still being evaluated, we do know there are stricter carry-on rules being implemented.  Unless you have TSA Pre-check, security wants carry-on bags "decluttered" as much as possible so X-ray machines have a better view of what's in your bag.  Any and all electronics larger than a cellphone must be placed in a separate bin.

I say we put Amazon in charge of the lines!

3. Anyone I've ever spoken to has only rave reviews for the Premium Economy experience, especially when comparing the cost vs. Business or First.  "Think of PE as what Business Class used to be prior to fully lie-flat beds" per the column.  American Air is actually leading the competition for US carriers on international flights, with Delta second and United lagging behind.  Catching up to international rivals is a long-time coming, especially the Gulf carriers (Emirates, Etihad and Qatar) with their insane amenities.

American Airlines Premium Economy seat

4. Lastly, if you're thinking about investing in a "Smart Bag" complete with GPS tracking and power ports to charge devices -- don't.  It's all about those pesky lithium batteries and the ongoing debate about their safety.  Most domestic carriers won't allow the bags to be checked unless the batteries are removed and carry-on is the same.  There seem to be more outlets everywhere -- airline terminals and plane seats -- so why fight it?  Ditch the lithium and the stress.  Travel can be stressful enough!    

Great concept, particularly for "road warriors" -- 

but will the TSA allow is the big question.

TEXAS HOSPITALITY FOR BIRTHDAY WEEKEND

When the opportunity arose to spend my birthday weekend with long-time Houston-based friends Kay & Fred Zeidman, the decision didn't require much thought.  Spending time with them is always a blast (Cancun, Colorado Springs, Palm Beach, Austin and DC among past destinations), but going to their home base allowed for time spent with their kids and grandkids as well.  The suggestion of the weekend in the country was particularly enticing with new areas to experience -- at least for us.

How about that Texas Hill Country (THC), y'all?  The drive time is less than four hours from Houston -- southwest of Austin and northwest of San Antonio.  We stayed in Fredericksburg, which is "deep in the heart" of the THC.  In addition to local agriculture specialties of peaches and pecans, you might be surprised as I was that there are over 400 wineries in the area!  

As for accommodations, I found the Fredericksburg Herb Farm offering individual cottages.  Small and quaint, the location is minutes from all the action on Main Street.  While the cottages do not come equipped with a telephone(!), there is a flatscreen T.V., large room and bath, and friendly cats belonging to the property that are only too eager to come on in.  Each cottage has its own porch swing.  Clearly it would be optimal to visit when the garden is in full swing (what place isn't?), but there was something lovely about the winter setting.  

Our cottage (L); An idyllic walkway photographed in the morning (above)

We had some outstanding meals along the way, most of which were suggested, so for me that was a win-win!  First was Navajo Grill in Fredericksburg for an incredible burger but all-around delicious food.  The BBQ enjoyed along with excellent music (played by Austin studio musicians) and dancing (we watched) made for a fun Saturday night at Hondo's on Main, not to mention a trip to the DQ for the perfect dessert.  Watching the planes land while dining next to the runway at the Hangar Hotel Diner was too cool, although you'd never get me up in that wind!  The pancakes were to die for ...

Breakfast crowd at the Hangar Hotel Diner

Saturday night at Hondo's

A high point of the trip was visiting the National Museum of the Pacific War aka Admiral Nimitz Museum.  The Admiral was a Fredericksburg native so it is only fitting that this museum is located in his hometown.  The replica of his eponymous battleship (SS Nimitz - still in service) is a sight to behold, providing context for just how massive the actual ship is (nearly 1,100 feet long, just shy of four football fields).  Fredericksburg may be a small town, but this museum is world class. 

A small section of the incredible replica on display at the museum.

 

If I lived in Texas, I would take road trips just for a stop at Buc-ee's.  To call these behemoths "convenience stores" is like calling Lake Michigan a "water feature."  Maybe a slight overstatement, but you get my drift.  Endless gas pumps (cheap!); ridiculously clean and plentiful bathrooms; and everything else from used tires to $1,500 smokers.  We sampled a chopped bbq brisket sandwich, fresh-made chips and a drink for under $8 and it was delicious -- cooked on the spot.  

Everything's bigger in Texas:  jerky (above); gas pumps and packaged ice below

                           And then a small portion of the gift area!  

 

Love my surprise Buc-ee's t-shirt which required major subterfuge on Kay's part! She pulled it off!

The not-so-wonderful find on the highway was the automobile "graveyard," site of countless cars destroyed in Hurricane Harvey.  

 

We also toured the devastation, largely in the Meyerland area of Houston, where home after home is abandoned and/or under construction.  Never have I counted my blessings on my birthday as I did that day.  It was stunning.

Homes are elevated to avoid a repeat of the past; endless For Sale signs; new front steps; the bayou now

We finished the stay with a fun dinner at Relish back in Houston (amazing fried chicken) and watched the exciting BCS game before heading out the next morning.  Great friends, great fun, great food ... thankful for this great start to 2018!

BYE, BYE 2017 ... HELLO, 2018!

Once again, it's time to look back on where we went in 2017 ...

Cabo San Lucas

India (Delhi/Agra/Ranthambhore/Jaipur/Udaipur)
The Maldives
Western Australia (Perth, Margaret River)
Hong Kong
Atlanta & Fort Lauderdale/Boca/Miami
Boston & Providence (RI)
Portland, OR

And look forward to where we are going in 2018 ...

Houston and Texas Hill Country

Finland/Estonia/Latvia/Lithuania/Belarus

Moscow & St. Petersburg

Seattle

Detroit

Greece (Athens/Mykonos/Santorini)

Thanksgiving in Charleston and Savannah

May all your travels be memorable for the right reasons! Thank you for taking this journey with me ... 

CHECKING OUT LA'S NEWEST STAR CHEF

Was scheduling a dinner in December at The Grove, one of LA's busiest open-air shopping/dining malls, the brightest idea?  Probably not.  Believe me, I heard plenty as the hubby, daughter (her birthday dinner) and son arrived in separate cars all juggling to find that coveted parking space.

 

Happily, dinner at 189 by Dominque Ansel was well worth some minor inconvenience.  And what was so compelling about this particular venue?  Chef Ansel has gained enormous notoriety for introducing the world to the Cronut (part croissant, part donut), first served at his eponymous Soho bakery back in 2013.  Frankly I hadn't heard of him personally, just of the item.  So when reading about the newest openings in LA, I thought this must be worth a try.  

Amazing croissants and bread above; right are some pastry with the exquisite packaging.

We had a mini version of the gooseberry pavlova for dessert -- scrumptious!

The restaurant is above the bakery (open until 9pm).  Alas, the cronuts had run out by the time I arrived but I did sample some incredible croissant and everything is beautifully displayed.  

 

What I liked most about the restaurant was the very well-informed staff guiding us through the appropriate number of dishes (4 small/3 larger) all meant to be shared.  The order of excellent "salt & pepper ribs" comes with three but they enlarged it to four so we'd each have one.  That may seem like a small detail, but not having to get a second full order was appreciated.

I love to sit at the counter and watch the action

As one might expect, the "48-hour Handmade Sourdough & Butter" was perfection -- not a surprise since Chef Ansel is first and foremost a baker.  The other outstanding dishes were the roasted radicchio salad, eggplant and fig tartine and the lamb shoulder was a huge hit.  The "Spoon-tender Cabbage Soup" -- similar in presentation to french onion -- was the only miss of the dinner.  Why?  Too smoky for our taste.  Our server was very interested in how to communicate our feedback to the kitchen as that is how they learn this early in their operation (open just a month).

Left:  the sourdough;  above: roasted radicchio salad;

Fig and eggplant tartine

Frankly I don't know all what we had for dessert except the pavlova mentioned above; I think some were compliments for the birthday or maybe they just liked us!  All were delicious.  

 

So what's the takeaway?  I'm going back for a return visit with some fellow foodies, happily after the holiday season.  Going to The Grove is a fun and delicious experience; just know that their parking can be a wild ride at peak times of the year!