JAIPUR, INDIA: A HELLUVA STORY (Part 4 in a Series)

Why is the drive from Ranthambhore to Jaipur nearly four hours in length when it is only about 100 miles (180 km)?  Because a "major" road in India can mean just two lanes in each direction.  Mind you, few drivers actually pay attention to traffic lanes, not to mention dodging all the animals, motorbikes, and enormous sacks of hay. "Wide load" to say the least! Arriving at the Oberoi Rajvilas is indescribable. It is a true oasis on 32 acres of lush grass with peacocks in abundance. It is just a gift.  And we thought we'd seen some pretty wonderful welcome amenities, but hand's down this property gets #1 status.  Witness below the edible chocolate. How in the world ...?? Someone across the planet reads my blog (not to mention the hubby's weekly column on Townhall.com)!  We are honored.   Pathway to our room above; marigolds are used liberally for messaging (below). Remember "Best Exotic Marigold Hotel"?  Filmed in and around the Jaipur area.   Prior to visiting somewhere, I'm forever collecting information on shopping and restaurants. For Jaipur (one of the world's major jewelry sites), on the list of must-see's was the Gem Palace.  Founded in 1852, and still in the same location, this historic jeweler has a sign-in book so incredible I actually took some photos:    In case it's not clear:  Jacqueline Kennedy (top; circa 1962); Charles & Camilla (bottom left; circa 2006); Oprah (bottom right; 2012).  We were in very good company to say the least! Alas, no acquisitions. We had a lengthy and fascinating conversation with 8th generation propietor/scion Samir Kasliwal, at the end of which he showed us some incredible commissioned pieces. I couldn't resist trying on the 900-carat "chandelier" made for a Kuwaiti royal (as heavy as it looks). Somehow we started discussing our next stop -- Udaipur.  Yours for about a million bucks. Back story: Before leaving home, we were informed by our tour company andBeyond that all 82 rooms at the Oberoi Udaivilas, plus the other comparable area hotels, had been bought out for a wedding during our scheduled visit and would we consider switching our plans. Firmly no. There's no way we're missing this place!  Of course, guess who's going to the wedding?  Our new friend Samir! And since andBeyond personnel knew the groom, we would be welcome to attend .. along with the 1,200 or so other guests. What's a few more?  Wedding highlights in the next post. While in Jaipur we had a full day of sightseeing the historic sights, culminating with an elephant ride and dinner at Dera Amer.  The following day, it was a challenge getting up for a 6:30 a.m. hotel departure to the airport for the short flight to our next and final stay in India:  Udaipur....  Can you guess what this gentleman (facing the laptop) does for a living?  Notary Public.  Fax/typewriter/computer -- the works.  Inside the walled city on our tour. Clockwise from upper left:  Next to my Capricorn sign at Jantar Mantar, a Unesco World Heritage site with 19 "architectural astronomical" instruments built in the 1700's; with our new Indian "friends" who love being photographed with Americans -- mostly selfies; inlaid lifesize chess board -- we heard something about the rulers using concubines as chess pieces; and the world's largest sundial.  The hubby still can't believe I used the word "hypotenuse" when we were there, but I will keep reminding him I did pay some attention in high school. Atop Amer Fort The hubby in deep discussion with Fort guards -- about "Fast & Furious" movies! Traveling companion/Aunt Judy Stone & I lasted about 15 minutes ... love the elephants but the ride is VERY bumpy!

BENGAL TIGERS IN RANTHAMBHORE (Part 3 in a Series)

It's likely that people travel to Ranthambhore, India, for reasons other than seeing Bengal Tigers in the National Park (there are just 58 in the area according to the most recent census; nearly 4000 total in the country), but I'm not sure why. Perhaps for the sole purpose of visiting Oberoi Vanyavilas, indeed a spectacular property with just 25 luxury tents ... but that is probably not the case. Traffic with no means of stop signs, let alone traffic signals. Our journey from Agra to Ranthambhore was via train with a "first class" compartment. From leaving the hotel via car to being greeted at our destination was 4+ hours. If you saw the movie Lion, you know young Saroo spends a few days on a train with barred windows. That mode of transportation still exists today -- either in 3rd or even 4th class. Fortunately our luggage was driven separately for us, so that was definitely a plus.  The folks from andBeyond were there until we boarded the train and waiting for us at the other end, which was extremely helpful. And we had a friendly and informative traveling companion in our compartment (after he was fully awake, that is). Waiting for the train with our escort and the captivated onlookers. In front of the train station in Agra.   Our companion in the "first class" compartment. He provided tracking info from Google which was very helpful! We learned from our 2016 African safari that sightings are promised to no one. Indeed the first afternoon drive was hot, long and "whiplash" bumpy with only a brief sighting of a female tiger plus monkeys, deer, wild boar and many birds.  The next morning was worth the entire journey, even with the 6am departure.   Langur monkeys were everywhere in the park.  The guides rely on their calls of "alarm" to track the big cats and other animals. Barely 10 minutes inside the park (the government divides the park into zones and the assignments are random; this was Zone 6), a very large male -- nose to tail 12' and in excess of 500 lbs -- crossed our path out in the open.  After that, we were very lucky to encounter a female with her 4-month-old cubs -- still being carefully guarded by mom. In other words, a family of Bengal Tigers. Mama and babies were consuming a large deer carcass, after which they strolled for a bit.  Our guide Farooq had a hunch they were headed to a nearby water hole and he was absolutely correct.  We were the first of several vehicles, and thus had a prime spot. Papa .. Mama plus one Look closely -- there are two cubs!  What can one say?  These are simply gorgeous creatures.  The stripes on the cubs are quite narrow and continue to spread as they grow.  One could die from the cuteness of them.  It was extraordinary.  The upside of traveling to India in April is the tigers are more apt to be "out" than certainly in the colder months, and the park is shut down completely for three months during the monsoon season (July-September).  The moral of the story?  Take the good (great) with the bad (hot)! Jockeying for the best position to see the tigers      Was able to get this owl in a lucky moment. With our fearless (and fast) driver Anwar on the left and  guide Farooq on the right, but missing Judy in this photo. Four drives and two sightings -- one major -- was just tremendous.  Couple that with incredible accommodations, food, spa and staff, and it was a thrill.  Next stop:  Jaipur.