BENGAL TIGERS IN RANTHAMBHORE (Part 3 in a Series)

It's likely that people travel to Ranthambhore, India, for reasons other than seeing Bengal Tigers in the National Park (there are just 58 in the area according to the most recent census; nearly 4000 total in the country), but I'm not sure why. Perhaps for the sole purpose of visiting Oberoi Vanyavilas, indeed a spectacular property with just 25 luxury tents ... but that is probably not the case. Traffic with no means of stop signs, let alone traffic signals. Our journey from Agra to Ranthambhore was via train with a "first class" compartment. From leaving the hotel via car to being greeted at our destination was 4+ hours. If you saw the movie Lion, you know young Saroo spends a few days on a train with barred windows. That mode of transportation still exists today -- either in 3rd or even 4th class. Fortunately our luggage was driven separately for us, so that was definitely a plus.  The folks from andBeyond were there until we boarded the train and waiting for us at the other end, which was extremely helpful. And we had a friendly and informative traveling companion in our compartment (after he was fully awake, that is). Waiting for the train with our escort and the captivated onlookers. In front of the train station in Agra.   Our companion in the "first class" compartment. He provided tracking info from Google which was very helpful! We learned from our 2016 African safari that sightings are promised to no one. Indeed the first afternoon drive was hot, long and "whiplash" bumpy with only a brief sighting of a female tiger plus monkeys, deer, wild boar and many birds.  The next morning was worth the entire journey, even with the 6am departure.   Langur monkeys were everywhere in the park.  The guides rely on their calls of "alarm" to track the big cats and other animals. Barely 10 minutes inside the park (the government divides the park into zones and the assignments are random; this was Zone 6), a very large male -- nose to tail 12' and in excess of 500 lbs -- crossed our path out in the open.  After that, we were very lucky to encounter a female with her 4-month-old cubs -- still being carefully guarded by mom. In other words, a family of Bengal Tigers. Mama and babies were consuming a large deer carcass, after which they strolled for a bit.  Our guide Farooq had a hunch they were headed to a nearby water hole and he was absolutely correct.  We were the first of several vehicles, and thus had a prime spot. Papa .. Mama plus one Look closely -- there are two cubs!  What can one say?  These are simply gorgeous creatures.  The stripes on the cubs are quite narrow and continue to spread as they grow.  One could die from the cuteness of them.  It was extraordinary.  The upside of traveling to India in April is the tigers are more apt to be "out" than certainly in the colder months, and the park is shut down completely for three months during the monsoon season (July-September).  The moral of the story?  Take the good (great) with the bad (hot)! Jockeying for the best position to see the tigers      Was able to get this owl in a lucky moment. With our fearless (and fast) driver Anwar on the left and  guide Farooq on the right, but missing Judy in this photo. Four drives and two sightings -- one major -- was just tremendous.  Couple that with incredible accommodations, food, spa and staff, and it was a thrill.  Next stop:  Jaipur.

THE ROAD FROM DEHLI TO AGRA (Part 2 in a Series)

Three nights; two very full days ... that was Delhi, a city so vast and diverse that much more time could be devoted.  But with a total of just 10 days in India, one must move on. Prior to leaving, we enjoyed dinner at the Imperial Hotel -- a must see if you're a fan of the classic colonial style from the 1900's. We dined at San Gimignano, offering authentic and delicious cuisine ... sans alcohol due to a mandatory "Dry Day" prior to the impending local elections.   The next day, we boarded our private van for the 3.5 hour drive to Agra. We were told by driver Akbar we were on the fastest and most efficient road in India.  He explained the absence of large trucks as the result of expensive tolls imposed.  The truckers are therefore forced to use an alternate road, which same drive takes six hours! Arriving at the first of several Oberoi properties (specifically Amarvilas in Agra) to be savored on this trip is remarkable in itself, as just outside the walled property is significant evidence of poverty.   We were promised a view of the Taj Mahal from our room (and from many other enormous windows in the property), which did not disappoint save for the less-than-clear air.    From the hotel lobby Afternoon in the main part of Agra -- these are water buffaloes who couldn't care less about vehicles around them. Checking her email??  With barely a day to spend in the area, no time was wasted and we were off first to Agra Fort.   It was hot -- probably 110F -- which required perseverance on my part; not so the hubby and Aunt Judy traveling with us.  The architecture, inlaid marble and sheer size are most impressive.  After an hour or so, it was back to the hotel to switch to a golf cart for transport to the Taj, just a few minutes from the hotel, in time for a sunset viewing. Two photos of Agra Fort above; it's way too vast to do the structures  and grounds justice in a few photos. Security is quite tight, with men and women going through different scanners and pat-downs.  Finally, this iconic sight was upon us -- one of seven or eight Wonders of the World depending upon which list is consulted.  In case you're curious, we've been to five:  Machu Picchu, Pyramids, Colosseum, Great Wall, now the Taj Mahal, and the hubby has been to Christ the Redeemer in Rio.  No Chichen Itza or Petra, Jordan -- yet. It is a remarkable sight, no question.  We had been told in advance that there would be some scaffolding, but that hardly mattered.   And to think that this was built solely as a shrine to a wife (the emperor's favorite) should give most husbands pause! Not much more can be written, but rather photos to be treasured.   View FROM the Taj Mahal of the entrance. Would not have thought of coming to India without this ever-so-brief stop in Agra. Next we are off via train to Ranthambhore and a couple days on safari ...